been years, but used Naragansett for my 1940 super.

I also have a 1939 12, and have had no issues with the small airtex pumping through. Usually a flow regulator is not needed for the 12 models as I understand they have heavier duty needle and seats. As suggested check all screens and lines.

Every few years I check, if anyone happens to run across a lower splash pan for 1939 12, or a 1940 rear seat armrest radio head please get me in contact with seller, or?
Thanks Todd

When you install the solenoid, make sure you rotate the transmission so that the pawl is lined up with an indentation and can manually be pushed in all of the way.

I have mentioned this in the past from my 1940. You mentioned a front bumper bracket was bent? Indicating some front end damage? On my 40 had a front end squealing, scrapping sound could not figure out. Noticed the right front fender at some point had been repaired. Took apart the front wheel assembly. Cleaned the spindle and examined with a magnifying glass and saw a tiny hairline crack running along the bottom of the spindle base. Took all apart and put the spindle between centers and spun it a bit and the spindle was slightly bent. The brake drum would rub against the backing plate. Think if this came apart on the freeway?

I can only suggest from my 1940 Super experience. Mine has a two piece drive shaft. For sure you will need two jacks or similar, one to hold, raise, lower back of engine, and one to take down, twist, move the tranny with od. On my super you will need to remove all electrical wiring, the od solenoid, and od centrifugal switch. I used different size corks to block off open tranny holes so not much fluid leaking. On mine you also need to make sure the u joint propeller is going up and down to clear the X frame at the back of the od. At least one helper. And there are still some springs, forks etc., that will need to be disconnected. I have a clutch alignment tool, they may still be available for sale from a local tranny shop? Or if you have a lathe you can easily turn one. If you have the r-9 od. there will be a few things you need to watch for when you reassemble, very important. Thanks
And for the pressure plate you want to make sure you have the correct pads, if they are a modern type the may be too hard and will cause chatter when engaging.

You want to minimize play where the linkage go through any holes, not only up and down but lateral play. I have used a combination of thin washers and thin wavy washers to take out lateral play. If any holes are elongated needs to be remedied. If you take apart make sure you check for any wear inside the three column shifter parts toward the bottom. Been many years since I have done this cannot remember all the correct names.
Also when I got these cars many years ago an old Packard man, made me understand you do not shift through in one stroke. Up, pause a split second, move to rear, and then up. Three motions, not trying to do one motion.

Correction I do see the A and E carbs, look the same except something about the throttle body slightly different adjustment. What I should do is open up the A and take a couple measurements. Thanks in advance.

Time to send out my AAV-26 carburetor for my 1940 Super 8 180. Would like to know the difference, if any, between a 10-40A and a 10-40E. When I originally got the car in the late eighties it had an E, but has a small hole in the top of the float bowl for the original West wind heater. Got a second E which is on the car and would like to keep it running while a carburetor is out for the rebuild. Many years ago I got an A thinking it is also for the 1940? Externally I can see only one difference and that is two tubes that run around the venturies different directions. Might there be internal differences as the A does not have the small heater hole in the top. See two attached photos it they upload? The A is the dirty one as it has been sitting for many years.

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  10-40E.jpeg (87.11 KB)


  10-40A.jpeg (148.00 KB)