Yes, that's the kind you want.

Yes, I think I can sneak the SS sleeve in; I'll do it, I'll order the larger SS and use steel brake line.

Don't recall a spring on that side of engine however the original accelerator spring on drivers side was sometimes not enough so another could have been added somewhere. The rod does flop a bit but not too much. Should be held on with a spring washer, flat washer and cotter pin. Probably the most important adjustment on the Ultramatic so make sure it's working well.

The Easamatic uses ordinary DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. The large square is the fill plug and level should be just below the lid. It is not under pressure. If the Easamatic has not been used much, it would be a good idea to have it gone thru professionally. There are some on the forum that have had some bad experiences with sudden failure. Believe the brake light switch in mounted on the end of master cylinder at bottom end of Easamatic. If not there, then on a brass fitting on frame rail and connected by a short piece of tubing to end of master cylinder. The switch at base of steering column is probably back up lights.

No idea what the mysterious casting is without a picture--only thing I can think of might be the the stove area for automatic choke and a screw is missing from cover or the heat riser valve under carb. Both of those on exhaust manifold.

The lights may take a bit of detective work. Staying on means a short in wire to door or post switches or maybe the headlight switch. Will look at diagram and get back to you on a couple of suggestions there. There may only be one front light on the Clipper--will check or others will know for sure. The trunk light would be located right in middle of trunk lid and operated by a gravity type switch when lid is raised. Feed wire came from left side and up left hinge.

EDIT The dome light has 2 back door switches and the pillar switch in parallel--all going to ground. If staying on, either one of switches is bad or the wire to them is shorted.

The radio light depends on type radio. If just standard pushbutton, believe inside case at bottom of dial and radio has to be removed. If auto tuning type it is probably at center top of dial with same type holder as instrument lights but still have to pull because I don't think there is enough room to remove socket.

EDIT: Trunk light is optional and there is only one front lamp on Clipper. It should not be on the rheostat from head light switch--instrument lights should. There are two sections of the rotary part of headlight switch--a simple on off that gets a ground to turn on courtesy and is in parallel with both door switches and a rheostat for instrument lights. Sounds like headlight switch is miswired, or if changed maybe wrong one. Check the diagram and wiring is shown as if you were looking at switch from the top. The 4 terminals closest to knob are the rotary ones.

Wonder if necessary. After all, your regular lasted for 50 yrs or so but if the tubing were shaped to fit the space so a minimal bit of steel were exposed don't think it would be too bad. Is there enough room to have a larger diameter tube inserted thru a port and then turned or manipulated so the regular tube can be inserted thru it?

I recently bought a 1954 Clipper 4-Door Super Touring. About two months ago I registered it on this great website. I have had the car about a month and have not attempted to start it because I removed the gas tank to have it worked on. (An old sealing job has peeled away from the tank walls.) While I await the return of the tank I have been going over the car front to back assessing anything that needs attention. The car has just 60,000 miles on it and has been driven less than 1,000 miles in the last 32 years. It's had several elderly owners in that time who put money into the car replacing numerous parts that naturally wear, yet rarely driving the car. I purchased it from a fellow AACA club member who is in her late seventies or early eighties. (Her dad was Sherman Fisher who owned the Packard Balboa concept car for a while. She sold it after his death.) She reports that this Clipper runs great, transmission and brakes are fine.
The car has Easmatic power brakes, Ultramatic, radio with electric antenna, heater/defroster and Solex tinted glass.
Based on the odds and ends I have discovered I am posting these questions in hopes that you experienced folks could help me figure out some of the mysteries. I have a shop manual and it's quite good, but some things just aren't covered. I apologize for asking sooooo many questions all at once. Please guide me if I should submit these individually. I'm new forums.

Loose Linkage
At the "cross shaft" behind carburetor on passenger side there is a rod attached to cross shaft and down to the base of the transmission pan. I believe this is called a "relay rod" and what I interpret from the shop manual it is attached to the "throttle valve lever" on the transmission. There is a light helical spring dangling from the relay rod and I can't determine any place that spring attaches to. It is quite rusty and thin. The relay rod, if that is what it is, is quite loose. Any suggestions about the mystery spring and is the loose rod acceptable? It is securely attached.

Fluid for Easamatic
I can't find in the shop manual guidance on fluid for the Easamatic device. There is a large nut on top that appears to be a place where fluid is placed. Is that the case? Should one open that and check? How can one tell if fluid is at the proper level? What is the proper fluid? Is this fluid under pressure?

Mysterious Casting on Intake Manifold
I noticed on the side of the intake manifold a "j-shaped" cast iron piece that pivots. When manually lifted up it reveals a hole in the intake, as best I can see. Gravity keeps the piece rotated down over the hole. Any idea what this is?


Interior lighting
The light located above the rear seat, lights fine but is constantly on. It is not impacted by the switch on the pillar or the plunger-type switches on the door. Any idea what causes this light to stay on? Would all switches need to be replaced?
A previous owner had messed around with the dash lights, apparently to get them to operate. None of the instrument lights light except the high beam indicator and turn signal indicators. The rheostat on the headlight switch does not impact this. (The switch apparently had been replaced.) Lights seem plugged into appropriate sockets on instrument cluster. I found two black wires with what appear to be sockets at the end, though one can't place a bulb in these sockets. They have claw-like teeth, as if they place into an open hole and are held in place by tension. I can't identify where they go and the wire length is fairly short. Perhaps they are for a fuse. Any ideas what they might be?
No light at radio and can't determine where light goes into radio. Any guidance?
I located just one courtesy light at bottom of center of dash. The shop manual and schematic references two. This one light operates and can be controlled by rheostat at headlight switch and plunger-type switch at passenger door. Switch at driver's side door does not have an effect on this bulb. Is it safe to assume the plunger-type switch needs to be replaced?
By the way it does have a functional glove box light.
I have understood that Clippers have a trunk light but I have not found one though I did find a loose, rusty old plunger-type switch when cleaning out the trunk. Should there be a light in the trunk?

Stop Lights
Headlights, taillights, parking lights, turn signals all work well. Brake lights do not light when pedal depressed either with key on or off. Would this be a case of stoplight switch malfunctioning? Is this the switch that appears to be mounted at the base of the shift linkage? It is ahead of the Easamatic but does not appear attached to the Easmatic device.

Spare Tire
This car, incredibly, has the original spare. Does anyone have a 15" wheel they can sell me for this car? I want to have a spare but don't want to touch the original spare. Do wheels from any other makes of car work? I plan to put wide white radials on the car. It has dry-rotted bias ply tires on it that probably only have 500 miles on them.

If Kanter doesn't have a complete kit, then probably no one does.

Two places that did have a decent assortment of parts is Terrill Machine in DeLeon, TX and Egge Machine. Egge has a website you might be able to navigate but I believe Terrill is still the old fashioned way. They usually have an ad in Hemmings with a listing of parts, prices and contact info.

I like the SS sleeve idea, but wouldn't the very top and very bottom part of the steel, which wouldn't be perfectly covered by the SS, be subject to the exhaust?

I couldn't tell you if it was factory original or not. It has a seam much like brake line; it is 5/16 OD (maybe slightly more) and is real thin. The hole in the manifold is slightly more than 5/16, more like 21/64.

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I need help! does anyone sell all the components necessary for doing a valve job on my 327? I know Kanter sells some of the parts but i was hoping to find a complete kit the overhaul? also are there any special tools I will need. any help is appreciated.

I'm not sure i like the following idea but give it some thot:

Maybe cut a piece of larger diameter SS tubing that the mild steel tubing will just pass thru. Place the SS shield inside of the manifold and then press the mild steel tube down thru it and then swedge the ends of the mild steel tube.