Man that feels good. I can feel that all the way up here!

Brian

What color carpet would you be looking for. I have a complete carpet set from Kanters still in the box. It is grey After I get back home next week(I am in Rochester N.Y right now) I can send you pictures if you like.

ALK

"In one of my old book series, there was mention of the advantages of putting a driver controlled valve in the intake for long downhill stretches. IIRC, the idea was that you would kill the ignition on a hill and open the valve. IT was an older manual, and i cant remember what the supposed benifit was. Ill have to check when im neareer to mymanuals again.

The Manual is the 1923ish Edition of Audells Engineers and Mechanics guide. "

I can see this working as a sort of "Jake brake" as used on diesel trucks. You could use engine braking when descending hills without wasting gas. If you did this without the valve, the muffler would fill with gas and blow up like a bomb when you turned the ignition back on. But bypassing the carb with a fresh air valve would prevent the backfire, and avoid wasting gas.

Cars back then had primitive brakes, mechanical not hydraulic, and on the back wheels only. They would quickly burn out and fail on a long downhill stretch if you did not use engine braking.

A good man with an oxyacetylene torch can blow out a broken stud or easy out without damaging the threads of the bolt hole.

I hesitate to tell this because it sounds impossible but it is true. I have done it many times.

It takes a steady hand and nice judgement to do it just right. Someone who works in a muffler shop is apt to be an expert at this because you frequently have to blow out a broken off stud in an exhaust manifold when replacing an exhaust system.

The trick is to heat the bolt red without heating the surrounding metal too much. You need a small cutting torch with the flame set just right. You need a steady hand. And you need to blow the oxygen straight in at just the right moment.

American// British
gear shift lever// Gear lever
Transmission// Gear box
Transmission case// Gear box housing
Gear shift// Gear change
Fiberglass// Glassfibre
Grease fitting// Grease nipple
Piston or wrist pin// Gudgeon pin
Axle shaft// Half shaft
Parking brake// Handbrake
Hoseclamp// Hose clip


John F. Shireman

Since it was a nice day today before the tornado warnings, I figured I'd get some work done on the Speedster. I removed the front drum off of the hub, along with the backing plate that holds the brake shoes on. While I was degreasing the front spindle and accessories, I "decided" to remove a portion of skin from my right index finger, a feat not easily accomplished. This was an awakening experience to say the least!
Then I started to remove the rear axle and springs, but I cannot get the two front bolts on the springs out for anything. I tried to use my biggest impact gun on it, but to no avail. So, they are sitting in some PB Blaster until tomorrow when I'll go back out there and try to get them loose. It wouldn't be that hard, if it wasn't for the close quarters between the bolt head and the frame. For whatever reason, they're stuck and need a LOT more persuasion than I was ready to give it today.

Also, I put the headlights on there a couple of months ago, but never took and pics. So, here's a pic of the headlights mounted, but probably not in their final position.

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This is a quick tip to help folks out that have reported not seeing threads that have been updated. This usually happens when users access the Forum via the "Recent Forum Topics" block under the main menu of the left of your screen.





The Recent Forum Topics (RFT) simply show the 10 newest or updated threads in the forum, regardless of whether or not you have already read them. If 15 threads are new since the last time you looked, then you are only seeing the last 10 of them. This is why I do not recommend using the RFT block as your method for reading the forums. It should only serve as a visual cue that some type of forum activity has transpired, and then you should click on the "Packard Forums" link of the Main Menu to access the Forum Index.

This has numerous advantages. First it displays the list of all the Forums. This list is customized based upon your individual read/unread status. So any forums that have a "Bold" envelope icon, represent forums that contain new/updated posts that you have personally not read yet. If the Forum icon is "dimmed" that means there are no unread items in that forum. So that means you can simply skip that forum as nothing has changed since the last time you were in there.





If you click on a Forum that shows having unread item in it, then it displays the list of all the Forum Topic in that forum. Much like the Forum Index page, the topic list will show you what items have not been read by you using the envelope icon status.




Once you read an unread item, you will notice that the envelope icon now while show that it has been read.

The Recent Forum Topics block was added to the website to give you a visual alert that there has been activity in the forums if you happen to be in another part of the website, but I really recommend that you read the forum through the actual forum pages instead of simply clicking on the links in the RFT Block. This will keep you from missing any topics that could not be displayed in the RTF Block when there is a lot of forum activity.

Boy, tough luck! Most of us have been there once, and once was enough. The extractors I used to use are generally brittle as glass and nearly impossible to centerpunch and drill out once they snap off. Others will come along with advice and something will work for you, all I can say is BE PATIENT.

I have one of those "Hollywood Wolf Whistles" on my Packard. It mounts on the intake manifold, not the exhaust.

It's a lot of fun

First off, the engine isn't out of the car, right? Then it would be hard for what I'm about to suggest. Lay the engine on it's side, then take one of those propane torches and heat up the bolt for about 5-8 minutes. Then, take a white candle and put it on the bolt. Leave it there, holding it, for about 4 or 5 minutes to let the wax soak in around the threads. This will allow it all to come out rather easily. This might work with the engine in the car, but would be far easier with the engine out of the car and laying on it's side.