Thanks for info. It appears the unit you have has been discontinued--but there are others of similar concept.

I'm still kicking around ideas on how to use the original dash control. Since the piece thru the dash with knob is nothing more than a shaft with a short mechanical flex cable, it is able to be revised. There is adequate room on the defroster box shelf where the original rheostat is mounted to do several things--but not too much where the knob is. One possibility is to get the separate control module assy and adapt that.

The kicker, as we've both found, is the modern unit has both speed and temp so single knob has to be able to control both--On another car I had with fact AC, I wanted a temp control. Built a rather crude mechanism where the knob rotated for on/off & speed per original but slid in/out for temp. It was a real rube goldberg because of the mechanical temp switch I chose to control the clutch engagement without modifying anything else. The fact the knob always stuck out a distance for whatever temp selected was also a sore point--but it did work.

Am hoping to do better this time so maybe rotate for both. Regular for speed & a spring loaded pull out to select another flex shaft via gear for temp. Anyway, just thinking out loud and thanks again for the info.

HH56,

When I got my car the compressor was in the trunk, frozen, and someone had used a hacksaw to cut the refrigerant lines. The original condensing unit and dryer were still mounted in front of the radiator. Additionally my heat/air distribution (evaporator) box under the dash had, sometime in the distant past, turned into a lump of fuzed cardboard and corroded metal.

I ordered, from Classic Auto Air Manufacturing Company's (Tampa, FL) catalogue, the following items:

Item #1-1014, Classic Cooler H-C w/def
Item #12-1001, Filter-Drier Male "O" Ring
Item #5-128, Sanden V 2Gr 134a Compressor
Item #7-101, Sanden Swing Plate
Item #7-182 Sanden Adaptor Kit
Item # 11-1027, Power Condenser 21K BTU

As it turned out, we did not use the swing plate nor the adaptor kit. It was imminently simpler to carefully measure dimensions of the Sanden compressor, drill extra holes in the factory compressor mounting and line up the compressor pulley with the original A/C pulley (the car came with factory air).

The drier was mounted in much the same position as the original without need to alter anything in the horse collar. The double micro coil condensing unit, with its own electric fan, was mounted in the bottom of the space between the grille by bending the mounting brackets that came with it so that they'd fit snugly around the two support rods and bolt tight, again not requiring any permanent alterations in the horsecollar area. The evaporator box mounts under the dash in the approximate same position as the original.

Control for heater/defroster is a cable which can easily be routed to operate from the original ventilation, heat and A/C control panel. The fan speed switch and the temperature control switch are however electrical and are mounted in the evaporator box itself. Venting can easily be run to original A/C outlets on top of dash and defroster vents and, as I said in my earlier post, there is one vent in the front of the evaporator box and the ability to run another air outlet wherever is desirable. I have another vent mounted to the bottom of the dash on the far passenger side of the car. Hoses for heater can be routed through the cowl easily and heater control valve can be mounted anywhere that you can get a cable to it.

The whole system is the most unobtrusive configuration that I could locate and is pretty much unnoticeable unless you crawl under the dash and look specifically for it and, even then, does not appear especially out of place. Of course you can immediately determine that the Sanden compressor is not the LeHigh when you look under the bonnet but, what can I say? It's hot in Florida and I needed air conditioning. Additionally, with the exception of the aforementioned switch (which I have addressed), it works quite well putting out more than enough volume and BTUs to heat or cool the large greenhouse area in the car.

There was a European car with a similar front styling. Believe the Opel was imported for a brief time in late 50's early 60's with a few minor changes for US market. Think later version also resembled the GAZ & Mercury with the wide grill layout & headlight treatment.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=732&forum=2&post_id=27596#forumpost27596

My friend Keith sent me an email with this prior forum posting. Have to find out the cost.

The '37 looks very much like the '41 120 picture, certainly different from mine.

I'm going to avoid removing the dash. That did that on a '51 Frazer and it was no fun getting it back on. If I can find a gauge rather cheaply, I'll just hang it up under the dash for once-in-a-while looksee. I did clean the sending unit real well, but get no response from it all with a voltmeter. When I got the car the dash gauge would stick on 1/2. This car was converted to 12V, so unsure the effect of that. That's very useful information on the two different tanks.

Quote:
There's an Ammeter/Gas Gauge for a '41 120 on eBay now -

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/reply.php?forum=1&topic_id=2659&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&start=0&post_id=27572

But we removed the complete dash in order to access everything there for re-wiring. Even that was a struggle.

Regarding the sending unit, it should probably work after a thorough cleaning. NOTE Getting a good ground is critical to it's operation.

Quote:
Passionate person projects a perfectly pontificated persuasive portrayal of the power of Packard!

Well said Andy!

You guys are right, it may cost a lot for the clips but I need them to put the car back together(assuming I ever get it apart) and considering the trim is 99 percent good, the price of the clips doesn't seam that bad.

Actually, the front bumper is bent up in the middle, like someone hooked a chain to it to pull it. The grill also has a few cracks and bends in the bottom, in the middle, where the metal is thin. The rear bumper has a little spot on the bottom of the driver side, BUT....I think it's perfect:) I don't want to be too corny but I'm really excited about this car. I'm 29 years old and just bought my first house as well as my first Packard. I don't have a lot of money, so my project will be slow and probably not make it to the quality of most of your cars anytime soon. I think I'm out of touch with some people here so I hope this makes sense. Some of the guys on this site obviously have high budgets and high expectations for other Packard owners. I've built several Mustangs and been around a lot of other project cars but I've never thought that most of the "classic" cars that people have are really that "classic". I've always felt a little cheated around older cars because, no matter how nice they are, most of them can be built from a magazine. Packard is what I've always wanted but didn't know it. Even when I did the Mustangs, I felt like it was too easy. Parts were cheap, new, and easy to find. I didn't even know what Packard was until I stumbled across my car, which I've only had for a few days, but from what I've learned so far, you really have to put in a lot of extra effort to work on a Packard. To me, that makes it a REAL "classic". This will probably be the newest project car I ever buy again. Screw the sixties. O.k. now that I'm done telling my car how much I love it, I'll let you guys read something else. Thanks again for all the input, see ya.