Dave-

Thanks for the continued information.

Okay, I didn't know there was a gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifold. Yes, there are 3 bolts.

BTW, thanks for the drilling information! I removed the heat tube with a 21/64 drill bit, everything came out just fine.

I'll bolt the intake and exhaust manifold together and let you know what the machine shop says.

Good suggestion!

Also check the bolts that hold the rear brake drums to the axle for tightness. If they become loose it can cause a squeak or clicking noise that is most noticeable at low speeds.

Heatbox is the chamber made up at the juncture of the intake and exhaust manifolds where the heat riser valve deflects the hot exhaust up towards the base of the carburetor. Should be a gasket where the two manifolds join. Aren't there 3 bolts that fasten the heatbox halves together? That's where there should be a gasket.

Yes, I saw the differences in height between the intake and exhaust and the red level. I can't believe there is that much difference. Both manifolds have to tighten simoultaneously and uniformly against the block. If you were to machine the manifolds individually, they would lay flat against the block but the heatbox bolts might not line up, that's why its common to surface them as an assembly.

EDIT - let me put it another way. The surface of the engine block where the manifolds fasten - it's a single flat surface, right? As the manifolds individually tighten to the block, the holes that hold the two manifolds together at the heatbox must come into alignment at the same time.

What is the Heatbox?

You mentioned it once before, and by guessing I assume it's where the intake and exhaust meet. There's no gasket there...and there is no gap in mine either. The 1/8 gap I mentioned is on the face of the manifolds to the head of the engine - the exhaust manifold is 1/8 inch farther away from the head than the intake...see the pictures with the red level.

Dave Schumaker has been working on that site off and on for almost 5 years. Dave's a good guy, but he still owes me a carburetor....

Wow, 1/8 is a lot, hard to believe. But they've got to be flat within the ability of the gasket to accomodate. All I can suggest is that you use a new gasket on the heatbox, and when you bolt them together, check to make sure whatever freedom of movement you have before tightening is set to minimize the amount of machining.

meaarch-

Photos would help us a little to see your situation. The demister you mention, is that another term for defroster? Remove the fog from the windshield by blowing air over it? Different terms from across the pond.

My 52 Packard has a heater and you can follow the red tubing in the following photos. Is there a connection on your head for the tube between the 5th and 6th spark plugs?

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I've never seen export cars but the heater take offs I've seen were always on top of the head about in the middle to rear toward manifold side and on the water pump--usually with a 1/2 inch pipe plug in both if not used. Wouldn't think that had changed just because it was export.

As to the exploded view all I can offer is the parts manual plate 103 for the 23rd LH series. 22nd would be similar but the left vs right would undoubtedly be different. Maybe the 22-23rd guys have better resources. Am assuming your car has the air vent pipes--just missing the heater core and associated??

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=613&cid=70

There are several modern retrofit heater/defrosters available but the problem is all require 12volts. Mounting would not be a major problem. If yours is still 6v, then I think about the only option would be to find something from a parts car and use that or possibly an aftermarket on ebay.

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So, I left the intake and exhaust manifolds together to check for flatness. They were way off, over 1/8 inch. I removed the two to clean them thoroughly, and will rebolt them and take them to a machine shop to have them resurfaced. Does that seem like the right thing to do?

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