Very nice, I just took mine off about a week ago, and everything looks alright. However the flap that either blocks or let's air through is a little shady looking. The rubber around the edges of it is fubar, and I was wondering if anyone knew if there was something that I could replace it with. It looks like you can take it apart considering its just stapled in.

I believe the accepted solvent for silicones of this nature are from the class known as ketone solvents, the most common members of the family are acetone and MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).

Am not sure what the formulation is and how badly it gets into the metal, but since dot 5 is a silicone product think I would be tempted to use a silicone and wax remover from the paint shop, then the brake cleaner just for that little extra. Maybe overkill and not necessary, but don't think it would hurt either.

Yeah, I would say brake clean spray too. Lacquer thinner would work, but brake clean is basically laquer thinner under pressure in a can.

Tuesday 10th June 2008

Before heading to the workshop this morning a courier delivered the steering crank pin kit I bought off eBay recently. I'm still amazed that when I needed this item that one popped up on eBay, it's like deja vu all over again! The kit is good, including the "Belleville Washer" Peter, only drawback was the price US104.49 but I couldn't wait around so had to buy it.

On the way to the workshop dropped in to see Sam and Ivan, and Sam was able to weld the broken oil filter bracket for me. And this time I didn't go empty handed and was able to leave them a dozen bottles of "Pure Blond" beer as a thankyou for their help over the last few months'

At the workshop, first tidied up Saturdays painted items taking them off the wire most had been strung from and cleaning up any overpaint of POR-15 on inappropriate surfaces. Then drained the oil from the engine. Next, into the engine compartment disassembling the horns and horn bracket and the cross engine throttle linkage. These items, including bolts and brackets, were cleaned on the bench grinder wire brush in preparation for painting later this week.

And on arriving home found there was a small parcel in the letterbox from Packards1. I've bought a Gas door spring on eBay that the '41 was missing, thanks Joel.

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I was looking at the pictures posted by Glenn. Maybe I'm butting in but it sure looks like the break peddle swing arm is brazed together. Not a good idea.

Well a few updates. I painted the vent ducting, throtle linkage, headlight buckets. I also was finally able to get under the dash and remove the hood hinges, and heater box. Removeing the glovebox made this alot easier.

Firewall is now clear so I can degrease it and then touch up the paint.

One part I saw at the Swap Meet I went to was new reproduction defroster vent hoses, I should have bought them as my hoses just fell apart when I touched them.

Also is anyone reproducing the cardboard heater distribution box thingy? Mine is basically in pieces (dry rot).

I also finished painting the front drums.

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Thanks Kev & Tolandis,

You both confirm what a huge job the rear drum removal is. I think I need to get to the MN Packard Club Tech Wksp in Nov and get some help there.

Kev, Your puller looks like the one I saw. All of them have 'kiss' marks from years of hammer blows (probably 3 pounders!).

For now I am just glad to have the brakes working at all. The Clipper wasn't on the road for 20 years before I started into it in Nov.

Thanks again for info and great website.

Dan

That type of puller will work with any rear drum that sits on a tapered axle. At one point I had 3 different ones. I Blue Point Heavy duty one (pic below), one similar to type posted above, that John (Packard53) now owns, and a cheapo one came with a lot of tools I inherited.

The whole point with this type of puller is that it attached to the lugs bolt and not the edge of the drum. Also it's designed so you can wack the handle with a big hammer (BFH) , and that shock helps to break the drum loose.

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I can only speak for the two cars that I own. A 39 12 sedan and 40 180. I have owned both cars for many years and restored both myself. Both of the cars were two or three owner cars and had very limited servicing for many years. I got a puller similar to the one in the picture. It bolted fine to both sizes of rear drums. You need to be very careful not to damage the drums as the drums can be on there very tight. On the 40 I was able to get them to pop only after alot of careful banging on the puller and some heat on the drum hub. On the 39 after much frustration, and again not wanting to damage the drums or the puller, an old timer told me to keep the nut about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose and drive the car around until the drum popped. Which it did. Whether using the puller or the slightly loose nut be careful.