3 & ground is the hold coil and will not pull in the solenoid by itself-- just spark--but if you pull the stem out completely then it will stay out if working properly.

4 & ground will energize things and extend plunger but then should drop right back out when solenoid fully extended because a set of contacts inside are supposed to open when stem fully out.

At any rate, reading the description of operation, checking schematics the light should go out when the solenoid is fully extended and the pawl is properly engaged since a contact (terminal 7) in solenoid opens. The governor should have turned it off by dropping everything out below 22 or whatever speed it is set for. Are you sure that is working properly.

One thing I am curious about. Are the two solenoids identical in the length & travel of stem? Reason I ask is there are several part numbers for solenoids. Not sure when the R9 started, but there is a part for 17th series, one for 18 & 19th, one for post war R9s, and then the R11s. All R9 schematics are identical so what would be the difference that needs different numbers.

Tried ground to case and to number 3 nothing. I got the rebuilt solenoid in today and put it in the car. I grounded the governor under the car and could feel and hear the solenoid operate. Take it for a test drive. Still not going into overdrive, and something else happened. After a few times of slowing down and then speeding up, the red light would not go out until I came to a complete stop. Before it acted normally, if you released gas pedal pressure it would go out. Now it does not. A simple clutch overhaul has turned into a nightmare.

If you really want to be a "hero" you could make a mold off your cardboard plenum and make new fibreglass replicas.

It's not that hard. You would have to take the plenum out, "restore" it to like new shape even using tape, plaster, plasticene or whatever so long as it has the right shape and appearance. Then, cover it with hydrocal plaster reinforced with burlap bags - this is about the cheapest way to make a mold.

Carefully take out the old plenum, now you have a mold that can be used to make all the plenums you want. Use mold release agent (kitchen pan spray will do) and don't knock it about, and you should be able to make dozens of plenums before it wears out.

Nobody is held responsible for finger checks or sleepy entries. As long as we can see the facts, that's what is important.

Thanks for the info. I'll try that.

Bob

Here in Ontario Canada it is illegal to repaint license plates.

I believe this dates back to when plates were changed every year and each year was a different color.

It might be interesting to know what other jurisdictions have this rule. However I doubt it is enforced on antique plates.

The plates I have seen, appear to have been painted the background color then the lettering painted with a hard rubber roller.

To do the most perfect show quality job, paint the lettering color first then paint the background color, finally polish the top layer of paint off the letters using rubbing compound.

Call it musical mythical or mystical but don't call it a mistake LOL.

Actually, all brake cleaners are NOT created equal (and not merely WRT to VOC issues). I've tried a few different brands at work and even found one that won't cut DOT3 brake fluid - just seems to push it around.

I've tried CRC's aerosol brake cleaner and didn't really like it. Yet, IIRC, their brake cleaner used, essentially, the same ingredients as their LectraMotive Electric Parts Cleaner, which works very well for its intended purpose. While CRC makes some very good products, I look to other brake cleaners, but avoid the deep discount generic stuff.

AutoZone used to carry an aerosol brake cleaner (in addition to CRC's) under the Coastal brand, but I believe it is now sold as under the AutoZone brand. Though I haven't tried it on DOT5, that cleaner worked very well for me, but never seemed to go very far. I use nearly two full cans on a disc brake job - cleaning new parts as well as old.

I believe that alcohol (methy, ethyl or ispropyl) is the accepted solvent for cleaning DOT 3 (and presumably DOT 4 which is similar) brake fluid residues from hydraulic parts. I also seem to remember when converting a car to DOT 5 years back that alcohol was the recommended solvent to flush the steel lines and cylinders (all rubber parts replaced). Like others I had good success using gasoline to clean grease from contaminated brake linings, but never had much luck cleaning and putting brake shoes back into service that had become saturated with brake fluid, no matter what they were cleaned with. Nowadays with a few more $ in my pocket I wouldn't even consider it, new shoes are relatively inexpensive.

Back to PackardV8's question about lacquer thinner and acetone, I don't have formulation info in front of me for lacquer thinner but I think the major components are a chemical class known as esters (like methyl or ethyl acetate), not ketones (like acetone or MEK).

I don't know a great deal about them, but I think you are correct that they were offered or used 1941 thru 1950, and maybe 1940. The production codes list two different radios for 48-50, both "fender antenna" and "roof antenna". I've been told several times that the one on Buicks in the same era which superficially look the same are in fact different but that doesn't mean they couldn't be adapted. I'd say that $300 for one, if it was excellent and correct, was an absolute bargain. I had one remasted some years back by Antenna Masters (perhaps now defunct?) and that cost was about $150.