How do you get there from Interstate I85 in SouthCarolina???LOL!!

No doubt you're correct on reason for the breakage. Have ran across a couple but didn't bother to analyze why--just made a contact out of an old open style relay I had laying around and attached it--worked so that was all I cared about...and I realize I should have asked ramspoker a couple of more questions to ascertain if in fact he hears his shifter is moving when selecting reverse since he did mention electronics..Suppose it could be something electric after all although don't quite understand the tie in with the cold or a few miles if it is--at least not without some other symptoms.

Most likely the tab on the fender with the hole in it was for the stamping process at the factory. It fit over locating pins in the stamping die to keep it aligned with the punch.

Well it's been in the 80s the last couple days. So very nice weather to work in the garage (aka Mantopia).

Thanks Mal. I try to take pictures in series so it not only helps me later during reassembly, but perhaps may help someone else that stumbles across my Blog later on.

I would have got more of the brake parts media blasted today, but I need to change out the media. It's not cutting very well anymore and it's caking up. So I think it just too contaminated to use, and needs to be replace. So I am off to Harbor Freight in the morning to get another 25lb container of 80-grit glass bead.

I also noticed that I am going to have to replace at least the rear section of the exhaust as the pipe is rusted away close the gas tank (see picture).

Does anyone know what these holes are for in the inner fenders in the rear (see pic 2). They exists on both the left and right side.

Also I haven't looked in the service manual yet. But do I have to repack that axle bearing, or is it lubed another way? Never done rear drums before, so that is why I am asking.

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Great series of pic's Kev!

I've had the oil pan off of mine at least 4 times trying to correct the leaky gasket problem. That bolt was tite too.

AS for the contact finger breakage of the PB pod. It is due to faulty assembly/ formation of the contact fingers.

The centre bus bar is riveted DIRECTLY UP AGAINST the center row of contact fingers. Upon button operation, the finger has to flex a little. But the bend point binds against the bus bar and quickly fatigues the finger at the bend point.

The lower and upper row of fingers have adequate clearence for flexing so they do not break.
This based upon inspection of 3hree different such PB pods i have, one other poster has discovered it and at least two other PB pods i've seen that belonged to others.

This is the lever I more suspect--potmetal and a known issue. The fellow at Ultramatic Dynamics has even designed a better one for his rebuilds because he kept finding so many loose ones.

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YES. but i pulled the lower plate from the motoring unit down on the side of the trans 2 or 3 times and checked the set screw and for loosness. It's all tite. Perhaps the motoring unit is maladjusted as u cited too. At this point i find it easier to just select the "N" between desired selections than to tear it apart. In my particular case the INcorrect operation is strictly intermitent with no set pattern. Been going like this now for 10 years.

Agree 100% about the electric contacts--thin sheet bronze type stuff that flexes and breaks easily--but your toggles should have taken care of that. Your issue also sounds like the selector shaft lever might be a tad loose. Since the motor stops on a dime, if any looseness or misadj present, especially in reverse since that is max travel, valve wouldn't pull out all the way & would be the same result.

HH56. U're most likely correct in u're analysis. The shift to "N" process is ez enuf to try tho. My very low mileage Exec. has an occasional problem of engageing LOW when "D" is selected. On more rare occasions i get the same "R" selection problem as described by Ramspoker. These only seem to occur when i fail to select "N" first before the desired selection.

THis occured when the pushbutton pod was stock form, AND occurs now that the PB's are replaced with toggle switches.

The original PB pod had 'dangling chads" for contact fingers. The former owner advised to tap on the pod housing to engage "R" if it failed. The problem was a broken contact finger on the back side of the pod.