I think this says it all Guscha:

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Quote:We have no O'Reilly's here in Illinois. I wonder if the paint (I think it is Rustoleum) I have seen at Home Depot or Menards is the same stuff you used and what Eastwood Sells?


Did a quick search and found these. What you think?
Plasti-Kote Wrinkled Finish #217 Black.
or
Krylon # 3370 Jet Black Wrinkle Finish

Sounds like a bad contact in your solenoid. You mite be able to fix it your self.
Greg

It's retarded timing that causes an engine to run hot. Overly advanced timing is often characterized by preignition and possibly failure of the starter motor to turn easily.

Clipper47 writesQuote:

I was always under the impression that just the opposite is true. Timing that is to far advanced tends to cause the engine to run hotter. I seem to remember one car I had where the timing was advanced to the point it would ping on a hill. When the timing was brought back down to get rid of the pinging the car seemed to run cooler too.

Jay writes,

Quote:


What i've been told about why an engine tends to run hotter with the thermostat removed is that the restriction created by the presents of the thermostat slows down the coolant thru the radiator allowing more heat transfer to occur. Without the thermostat there the coolant tends to travel too fast thru the radiator thus giving up less heat and delivering the coolant back to the engine hotter than it could be.

Very true. I think what we're all saying--in different ways--is that it appears the Russian thinking was still "why design and innovate when you can copy and paste".

I agree with the above if the "buzz" is electrical, but if it has a mechanical sound to it, check the travel of the OD case lever.

Tom,

I used wrinkle paint that I bought at a local O'Reilly's.

I did not have a drill press at the time, so I left the tag in place and very carefully taped it off. I think it worked great.

As Owen says, you can get blind rivets to reattach if you decide to remove the tag.

Thanks for the comments.

Tom

The only two things I can think of that would cause a buzz would be the relay or solenoid. If the relay is not getting full current either because of high resistance in a connection or a bad switch, it might not have enough strength to fully pull in which would result in a buzz that would affect everything downstream. The relay contacts may also be burned and not providing full current to solenoid..

The solenoid has 2 coils--a heavy pull in coil and a lighter hold coil. The pull in coil is released by the internal contacts when the solenoid is fully engaged and the hold in coil is supposed to do it's job. If the hold in coil isn't holding, then the solenoid will vibrate or buzz and be fairly loud. A bad connection or poor ground would be suspect there. If the contacts are mis-adjusted or something is preventing the solenoid from fully extending and not allowing a complete quick opening of the contacts, that would cause the buzz and also burn the contacts. Is that what you meant by badly burned or was wrong with the first solenoid. If the pawl is gummed up or possibly burred, that might cause a slow engagement.

EDIT: You didn't mention any clunks or harshness but in the 47 service counselors, page 69 there are some mechanical things that might apply to your slow engagement--and there might be the ratcheting your mechanic refers to. In a later counselor, they mentioned a lot of corrosion and shorting problems being reported with the bakelite connector in the OD harness. Don't know if your 41 has that connector but might be worth a look.