Sorry the picture flipped on me, The guide is on the right.

Here is the clip with a screwdriver prying it out of the groove. The one side is out, need to move to the other side and do the same.

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On the left is a guide with the clip. The ends of the clip are painted white.

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For some reason the picture failed to post. Operator difficulty is guess.

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The last picture shows why you can't remove the valve guide from the valley.

I made a guide puller from a HS 5/16-24 all thread rod, a couple of nuts and a socket that was just big enough to fit around the valve seat. Tightening the nuts pulls the guide out.

There is some interference in the fit, but it doesn't take much effort to get them to move. I thought about using a slide hammer, but I decided it would be better to avoid the impact and ease them out.

I forgot to show the "C" clip removal. I will go take a pic and post it.

To remove the guide, I had to use a piloted drift that I got from Harbor Freight. I think I used the 5/16" one.

Because of the fact that the "C"clip keeps the guide from being pulled out of the engine and to remove the spring seat, I found I had to drive the guide into the valley about 1/4". This leave space to pry the spring seat off with a pair of flat blade screwdrivers.

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE GUIDE WITHOUT REMOVING THE CLIP. There is not enough clearance to push the guide into the engine and you will be unable to pull it out without damaging or breaking something.

This gives access to the "C" clip which I was able to lever off by using a flat blade screwdriver under one of the open ends of the C and after dislodging it from its groove, worked it around to the other end. Most popped off once I dislodged it from the groove.

Picture is of the guide, clip and spring seat driven off the block.

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Here is the partially disassembled valve valley.

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The valves came out easily with a big "C" valve spring compressor. Only problem was the forked end of the clamp had an offset that prevented getting to the retention collar, but I just moved it onto the spring and was able to compress them enough to free the thru valve, "HAT" retainer with a magnet.

I have a dedicated table that I am laying everything out in order that the 15,000 parts (so I am told) in the valve system are organized.

I moved on to the silent blocks and determined, with some international club members help, that the valve guides had to be removed first.

To get them out you first have to determine how they were installed. Picture shows a guide with the "C" retainer clip and the spring seat.

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I decided to go thru the engine and do the valves, silent blocks, new heads, basically the gaskets, cosmetics and ancillaries.

To get to the engine, I removed the fenders hood and radiator and grill surround. Much easier to get to the engine.

Picture is of disassembled top of the engine. Ran a die over the head bolts and the threads were stretched, so I will have to replace them. I guess the PA thought some extra torque on the cast iron heads would be good.

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First thing I did was try to turn the, "Ran When Parked" engine over with, not unexpended failure. I had pretty much decided to take it out and go thru it, but hoped it would have been less involved.

So, I purchased gallons of Kroil, WD 40, PB Blaster, marvel mystery oil, etc and flooded every thing for about 6 months.

I partially disassembled the top of the engine, carb, manifolds, valley cover and found some stuck valves which I was able to free up.

In talking to the PA he said he had to have the factory aluminum heads welded in the '70's due to leaks, which is what prompted him to sell it. When I got it, the aluminum heads had been replaced with cast iron ones, but there was evidence that it still had some leak issues.

Picture is of the engine as it arrived.

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I got out of sequence, this is the over the road, coast to coast hauler.

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