I used the power antenna switch on my '56 Patrician to work the T/L. I like the fact that it has a "spring back" feature when you let go of it. Just wire it up like the S/C says so it goes through the limit switches, so you don't over-extend the gearbox.

Hi again,
We should have the Packard up & running by tomorrow morning. Touch wood. Roll pin replaced. Who knew a $2 part could cause such a headache. One more question, seeing as you guys are so awesome. What weight engine oil would you recommend for operation in a tropical (25-30 degrees c)climate? Our distributor suggested a Penrite straight 40 weight shelsley medium oil. I read on the forums about Chrysler recommending a 50 weight but is that relevant? Any suggestions from the men who know?
Thanks again for all your help. Regards Vik

Has anyone any experience a obtaining and fitting a switch and the wiring necessary for a ride leveler manual control. I would like to fit one to my '56 Patrician and have found reference to one in the July '56 Service Counselor, but it assumes you have a factory switch and harness available for the purpose. I very much doubt that anyone over here in Australia would have them so I am looking to make-up something suitable.
Kind Regards, John

Hi all

Managed to reinstall new Timken wheel bearings and all new brake parts during the past weekend. Had the flexible brake pipe made up locally and it is very good quality, but very expensive! I am pleasantly surprised by the 'sophistcated' nature of my cars drum brakes. They seem to work much better than my 1963 vw beetles! Ja, a high class car does have better engineering! haha!

Dismantled the grille to take in for rechroming tomorrow. The metal 'fins' are a bit rusted but will clean up nicely. I will be painting them black. I am hoping that a friend of mine doing some glass painting etc. will be able to restore my badge? Some of the paint are flaking. Saw some badges on e-bay, but too expensive or in worse condition.

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Plenty of good things to check in the above posts. I would also ckeck that the relief valve spring under the large cap at the external end of the oil pump has not broken. Call me if you like. I would be happy to help if I am able. Best regards Peter Toet

I'd put my money on Peter Toet assisting with diagnosing over the phone. Call him on 2 6258 4975

Thanks again guys,
Wade is checking to see if the roll pin is broken.
As the vehicle is converted to rh drive we will be a few hours getting the steering box out to check oil pump.
I promise to send some photos in and thanks again to everyone for your help. Will keep you posted.
Regards, Vik

Vikki is in Innisfail. QLD, (Land of Oz). Mal or PeterT are you folks close enought to offer advice, or know someone in the area that may be able to offer in-person advice?

...and by the way, on the MGB I mentioned, the symptoms were different - oil pressure one minute, then no oil pressure, then back up again. We were sure it was gauge associated, but when you are running 8000rpm on the racetrack, you gotta be sure. Turns out this was partially heat induced (gear got hot, expanded and then separated from shaft), so look very very very closely for signs the oil pump shaft at the oil pump gear is not getting hot, gear enlarging and shaft spinning....

Just a question. Have you tried to hook up an external mechanical oil gauge to the block. Perhaps it's just a bad gauge or sender.