I figure I must be doing some thing wrong, but even after reading the "Instruments" section in the 1951-1954 Packard manual, I cannot see how a normal human being can physically get at the wiring behind the instrument panel of my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe.

The TOP two screws that hold the instrument panel in place are of course obvious. I cannot for the life of me find the BOTTOM two, which are supposedly accessed from under or behind the dashboard, while trying to keep your head off the clutch and brake pedals, and trying to figure out how to actually get at least one and preferably two hands up into the artea under and behind the dash. And of course, while having the fluorescent (so it does not fry the 56 year old wiring)trouble light in theri as well so you can actually pretend to SEE something.

I would really like to be able to reach the clock fuse, since my clock was not working when I bought my Packard a month ago, and I'd feel stupid buying a new one if all that is needed is a new fuse.

I would also like to gain access to the old wire, whose color is indeterminate due to age, on which I can see 1/4 inch of BARE conductor, so I can at least tape it with electrical tape until I replace the fossilizing wire harness.

I am not tiny, but am also not huge, so I figure I must simply be missing something obvious about getting back there.

WHERE are those 2 alleged bottom screws or studs??

Are there more fun surprises awaiting me once I get THEM off?

Should I be disconnecting the battery positive temrinal like the manual says, or does that needlessly complicate the diagnostics when there is only ONE person available? (and it's such a pain getting in and out from under that dash area)


Jim G

Am sure it will work electrically. Just a matter of figuring out how/where you will mount it. Looks like it would go on firewall and lever adjusted to pedal arm..Not sure about regular brakes.

I found this tpye of switch will it work

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Good one Eric! Maybe it will resonate with some of our resident curmugeons and this forum won't be ruined like the others.

Since a lot of this seems to be going on in other threads, and mucking up other threads, I thought it should have it's own thread. Flame away people!

I am going to be brief. This was a great positive thread about the PAC Meet and an opportunity to view photos of the cars we love and it has been hijacked and ruined by this bickering and childish you said/I said behaviour. Let's be gentlemen here and just enjoy Packards and share information. .. PLEASE!

If you have power brakes, here's how to do a 55-6 with the switch numbers. Available at any parts store. You wouldn't need the switch with extra terminals for the TL but same switch would work fine on regular cars and not too expensive. I don't know how bracket measurements would fit on your car but am sure it could be adapted. If you have regular brakes, then same principal but entirely different arrangement to pedals.

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AL wrote:

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Great, then I accomplished what I set out to do.

Having read many of your posts in other forums, I know full well that you're not some innocent victim in this. Regardless of whether John was trying to pick a fight here with you, Al, all your over-the-top response did was add unnecessary fuel to the fire. Remember, it takes two to tango, but if you wanna call John out for a fist-fight, do it privately.

I am using Silicon brake fluid

where can I get a mechanical-style switch ?

From the relay & kickdown sw, it appears you have an R11 so there will be no reverse lockout or light. The fuse voltage sounds like it's OK. With the knob pushed in and key on, you should have 6v measured to ground on both sides of switch under dash. When that is established, then you should have 6v on both of the other relay terminals (not the one marked sol). From there, to the bottom two terminals on kickdown sw down by starter and if all OK to that point, when at speed governor should complete the circuit to ground and bring in relay which will bring in solenoid. If you don't have the voltage at any of points mentioned, suspect switch or the wire between. If all good to kickdown, then governor or wire.

Has your electromatic been removed? See the accelerator switch and part of bracket but not the clamp on starter motor for clutch cable (unless it's further back out of picture) but think I see end of cable hanging down.