Yes it does help. And you are more of an expert than me. Every other time I put it together it worked just fine, what a genius I must have been without knowing it. I will try to energize the solenoid. So to have the shaft push out I understand I need to ground the governor. Does the solenoid need to be grounded also? Perhaps to the chassis before attaching to overdrive? In other words run a long clip lead from the solenoid body in my hand to ground (+) on the chassis? Now then I can tell you that when I go to insert the ball into the pawl I will need to apply inward pressure to get the bolts started. Because, now without the shaft extended I already need to apply inward pressure on the solenoid to start the bolts. So there will need to be even more pressure applied to push the solenoid flange against the spacer and in turn the overdrive.
So lets see we push the ball to the pawl, to install, tilt as much as it wilt, pray that it will stay, the spacer is straighter to engage her, and the bolts aren't to short to engage.
Well now that, that is explained how about the governor, perhaps we should just runover.
Wasn't there something like this in a Danny Kay movie? The poison in the pestal, etc. Or was it Who's on First? I dunno!

Talk to you soon. Todd.

I think you already know this one... but it was a 1923 (?) Packard sedan equipped with the smallest Cummins marine 4 cylinder diesel by Clessie Cummins. Built in late 1929,it was driven to the New York auto show January 6 1930.

The new version of HEI for Packards that I will do on my 327 will be cheaper and simpler. I will be reusing the stock distributor housing, and adding modern components like the Hall Effect sensor and a GM 4 pin HEI module. This will keep the cost of machine work down to a minimum. When I get done, it'll cost less than $100 to do, and use all new electrical components. And, it'll be 100 times more reliable than a Pertronix unit. I've heard a lot of bad things about the reliability of the Pertronix units, and won't use them.

AND... It'll work on Clippers!

Packard was positive ground even thru the first year of the 12 volt system, 1955. To my knowledge Packard never had a negative ground six volt system. My 1958 Motors Manual is wrong in that it lists 1955 Packard as 12 volt negative ground. Verify the generator number you have installed as well as the voltage regulator. The Delco gen is 1102778 or 1102773 and the regulator is 1118829.

Follow-up question: My buddy also said the regulator assembly looks too good to be 56 years old. He spculates it was replaced at some point. He wonders if whoever replaced it asked whether or not these assemblies are polarity sensitive. Remember, the 1952 Packard is wired with a positive ground system. There was at least one model year of 6 volt negative ground befoe Packard went 12 volt.

Are these regulator assemblies polarity sensitive? i.e. are there two different part numbers depending on positive or negative ground, or does it not matter?

Jim G

My buddy and I are trying to track down a number of electrical gremlins plaguing my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe.

One of the issues we are addressing is that the battery light on the instrument panel lights up whenever the key is turned on of course, but then STAYS on even when the engine is running. True, it is not on very "bright" - merely a modest glow, but it should be going OFF, especially once the engine is revved.

My buddy, who is a skilled mechanic of 35 years experience tells me that he HAS checked the generator output, and it IS charging. He theorizes that the regulator settings might have drifted enough to be causing the problem. True?

As many of you know, these cars came from the factory with EITHER an Autlite or Delco electrical infrastructure. Mine has the Delco parts. The 3-part regulator contains a circuit breaker, a voltage regulator, and a current regulator. The voltage and current regualtors are contatc type and are adjustable, and the manual in fact gives the procedures for properly adjusting them.

My buddy will get the required equipment to do so (he no longer HAS that equipment laying around!). But, before we do that, is he on the right track in thinking that this may be the cause of the always glowing battery light?

Yes, the battery light does get BRIGHTER when the lights are turned on (confirming a higher rate of discharge), and does fade in intensity when the engine is revved, but never goes "out" entirely.

Anyone?

Jim G

Quote:

Kev,

Thanks for the pic, it matches the Harrison thermostat I bought off eBay some time ago. Description on box says "Packard 1937-50 6 and Light 8 (Standard, Clipper and Super) and is marked 160 degrees which seems a lot better for the lightly pressurised system in the '41. We'll test and use that thermostat in the re-assembly later this week.

Attach file:

---

  (21.13 KB)

Ya know, you can get a Pertronix electronic ignition for most of the post war Packards. In fact, every Packard except for the 1956 Clippers (they used Autolite). I looked into it earlier this year. what does the world have against us Clipper owners? Can't get engine paint, can't get electronic ignition.

john, What has this question have to do with the topic of this thread? I know my old VW Diesel used to get 55MPG and my Mercedes 240 about 40mpg but they weren't Packards. In any event I think maybe the beer baron Busch family built a car around 1900 since they held the US patent from Herr Diesel.

Don't know what the first diesel auto in the US was, but I do know that my 56 Clipper ( 352 V8, t/u) was getting about 20-22 mpg on the hiway. Don't know what it will get once its back up and running.