Can't remember where to look for it just the moment, but recall that the coefficient of friction of type F increases slightly as the relative motion of the parts ceases, and dexron does the opposite, slightly, for a softer shift. I always use type F.

Frankly, when the throtle linkage is adjusted properly I hardly ever have trouble with slipping of the high range clutches. The direct drive clutch is another matter and is a continual plague. Its problem is almost always rooted in wear of the bushings and subsequent loss of pressure to the clutch.

The high range clutches are fed by sealing rings in the 55-6 units so don't ususually suffer loss. Timing of the low-high shift is a bit of a problem on the 54-55 twins but can be brought up to snuff with a 56 valve body.

Whilst socking a new engine in my pickup I took the opportunity to freshen up my Ultramatic since it had gone 20k since its rebuild and was hanging in midair awaiting an engine. I always use drive range as I feel it saves strain on the troublesome reactor clutch. I was pleased to see that my Kanter supplied high clutch disks were EXACTLY as they were 20k before in spite of countless low high shifts. I put them back in. This in spite of my mod to the low-high shift valve spring (cut 5/16" off) to cause that shift to come about 4-5 mph sooner. With the direct shift valve shimmed .125", I get a really nice shift separation that makes the car more pleasant to drive, especially as it drops out of direct on slow uphill corners without the need to kickdown. I'm sure my main bearings appreciate that.

The price for the basic conversion is $8500. That includes all the basic body modifications and reinforcements, and wood fitted, stained, and urethaned to order for the bed floor and tailgate inner panel. Stainless rub strips are included for those panels. The inside of the bed is sprayed with bed liner if desired and all the new metal is primed.

These modifications are made with minimal disturbance to existing paint, but the car will need to be painted afterward.

Tie down rails, step bumpers and other mods are available at extra cost.

Everything else that happens to the car falls under normal restoration/ maintenance and is not included in that price.

It is far cheaper to start with a decent car and avoid engine and trans rebuilds and major rust repair. There are plenty of candidates out there.

Would be glad to discuss this further. Feel free to call four one O three five seven four five six one.

Thanks for all the kind words gentlemen.

Have pondered long on the spare tire placement; it will not fit through the rear door unless I used a mini-spare. The other option is moving the gas tank just forward of the hump and putting the spare underneath as most trucks do. Lots of work.

As cli55er mentions, I build these things for fun and profit and would be happy to build one for YOU. I have enough parts and cars sitting about I can option a postwar vehicle to your wishes: Next up is a 54 Packard Shipper with 327 and Ultra for a gentleman in Canada. I also have my mind set on a 53 Shipper Deluxe with 327, 4 bbl, and overdrive mounted on a torsion level chassis with senior brakes.

Possibilities are endless as long as ebay keeps providing a steady stream of unwanted (and consequently low priced) 4-doors.

Well folks, the old 56 finally got all her new rockers and fender bottoms, a coat of paint and even a new engine. She just made her debut at the Henry Joy tour and I stopped on the way home to pick up some fenders at the Packard Dealer in Shenadoah PA. Took some pictures at the abandoned St Nicholas coal breaking plant--9 stories of derelict industrial fascination.

The new engine is an early production '55 320 with the fully machined conmbustion chambers. Can hardly tell it from the original 352 powerwise, but it seems it might be a bit more economical once broken in. It is fitted with a Packard oil pump that I had rebushed in bronze, and then cross drilled for pressure oil feed to the bushing. That seems quite happy and the lifters have not been heard from since the initial startup--even with the oil level at the add mark. The old engine would have been in hysteria by then. I discarded the vac pump and made a bottom plate from ground flat stock from MSC.

I used the 56 Thunderbird fuel/vac pump, and had Mr. Ficken rebuild the wiper motor. The wipers work fantastic now--over 100 beats per minute at full speed on the short stroke. All comments to the contrary, there was nothing wrong with those wipers when new.

Having lots of fun, and am glad to have her back on the road. Will put up some interior shots as soon as that's done.

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Although there are many reasons listed in the service manual for the sticky direct drive, in my experience it is almost always a tiny bit of dirt in the governor.

Will be happy to sell you a bar. Please PM me (ie, click on my name)

Luckily the brackets for the 51-54 are not spotwelded or riveted together, and are easy to change.

That sure wasn't a Packard town. The taxi was the only one I noticed. Surprised what a high percentage of coupes were visible.

It all looks very fine. Nicely done.

The carpet grommets for around the manual pedals are simple rectangles with a rectangular hole to match the pedal shank. I don't have any here just now but I recall them being about 5/8 wide all around the pedal shank and so make a rectangle with slightly rounded corners. I have cut them from 1/8" thick rubber and just glued them to the carpet. Makes a nice finishing touch.

Would point out to anyone just tuning in that the pedal pads easily unbolt so that the carpet can drop down over the shanks without slits. Don't know how many nice cars I have seen with ugly slits, sometimes even bound, going down to the pedals.

Have never seen that failure, but it is certainly easy to check for--lever must return to center when released.

Certainly the most common failure is dirty contacts. I think second in line would be the fine wire that heats the timer contact. That wire was glued on and here 56 years later the joint is failing. I have been able to solder those little devils down by gently abrading the wire to get a little insulation off. Its kind of like watchmaking.

My suggestion to T-L car owners is to leave the system on at all times unless the car is being hoisted. There is not the faintest chance of wearing the system out, but many perish from infrequent use. That is usually when ill-informed repairs are undertaken and a host of demons are released.

Yes indeedy, just as well you don't have the rear drums as they have been ruined by removing them from the hub. You will have to pull those rear hubs off and start from the axle up. Will happily sell you a 55 senior rear, drum to drum, please PM me if interested.

But don't throw those hubs away, They can be converted into a puller for other Packard drums.