Vielen Danke Guscha

Very interesting and fun video to watch!!!

Hi Cyber Friends,

I am getting closer to receiving the engine and transmission back...then the install.

Can you all please give me some advice on the engine break in procedure?

My plan is to:

1. Fill the carb floats using the existing external electric pump so it is ready to go.

2. Use the starter to turn the engine over (with the spark plugs out) for a while to pump up the oil and get oil pressure to read on the gauge.

3. Twist about 1.5 turns on the carburetor idle adjustment to get the idle setting up so that the engine will run at a high idle (how fast should it idle?).

4. Run a fan in front of the radiator to help keep it cool for the initial break in.

5. After the initial high idle run for the first 20 minutes return the idle to normal.

6. Whatever else you all suggest...

Is there any after start up adjustments needed to the lifters?

I am REALLY considering lifting the body off of the chassis "ala Ross" and mounting the engine and transmission on the bare chassis and connecting the radiator up on the bare chassis and rigging up the fuel to a remote gas can and hot wire the coil and the starter and run the engine on the bare chassis.

Any experience on this???

Greatly appreciate all of your help/suggestions.

Bill

I understand the engine of a Series 22nd is supposed to be grey.

What color is the bell housing and transmission supposed to be?

THANKS!!!

>Packard 1948, that conversion you referenced was an oiled mesh air filter, a very different and simplistic piece of equipment compared to the more sophisticated oil bath which is what GTO needs.

Well...you learn something "old" every day...

Being on a trip and away from the car...I sit here in wonderment...and contemplation...with many questions...such as...

1. Why does the gas tank need to be removed? As opposed to simply leaving it connected to the underside of the body and disconnecting the gas pipe?

2. So I understand you left the steering gear (steering box) attached to the steering column and unbolted it from the chassis and removed the pitman arm...so the steering gear is hanging down from the steering column shaft? I ask because I also need to replace the seals on my dad's steering gear.

3. Does the radiator really need to be removed or can the car be lifted strait off with the hoses/pipes removed.

4. Not being a "Packard Guy"...how are the body bolts routed to disconnect the body from the chassis? Are they accessed from inside the car?

At this, I have the engine and transmission out of the car and I have to re-seal the steering gear...perhaps it would be easier to still transition to the Ross Technique and roll the chassis out from under the car and then install the engine/transmission, electro-magic clutch linkage, exhaust, etc on the rolling chassis and then lower the body back onto the car...

Hmmm [head scratching emoticon added for dramatic emphasis] ....I might could even start the engine while it is on the chassis and inspect for leaks and even make adjustments /tuning ect before I lower the body back onto the chassis...

>man i wish i had me a shop and a lift!

Better yet...I wish I had a "Ross" hanging around!!!

I also wish Ross had posted this tip before I removed my dad's engine and transmission from his 1949!!!

My experience was posted a couple of weeks back and I removed only the grille and the radiator core support and jacked the back of the car up really high and used a regular cherry picker and a Harbor Freight leveler and the engine and transmission with OD came out fairly simply. It took about 8 hours single handed and after I removed the rear transmission mount (called the rear engine mount I hear) I had the back of the transmission strapped up with a nylon ratchet tie down strap. The clutch mechanism was a bee-itch to remove...and I am concerned about the installation...

Perhaps "Ross Technique" would have been much preferred method of reinstallation as I could install the engine and transmission/driveshaft in the car and then lower the shell on top of the rolling chassis.

Sooo...How did the factory put these things together in the first place...engine and drive chain chassis assembled in one area of the plant and the body assembled at another location in the plant and then lowered onto the rolling chassis (ala Ross) is my guess.

Here is a thread from earlier this week on a paper element air filter. Let us know if it works on the 1954.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16061&forum=2

I cannot seem to find any literature on the removal of the heater core so any help would be appreciated.

I removed all 8 of the little screws that hold the from half of the box on and I also removed the hoses.

I cannot seem to find out how to remove the front of the box as it seems it is stuck on.

Is there any trick???

Also...Does anyone know a source for the water spigot that is installed on the top of the engine head?

THANKS AGAIN!!!

Bill

Additional comment regarding using spark plugs with longer threads...if there are any threads sticking down into the combustion chamber then those threads are very thin and will get very hot and will most likely begin to glow red hot and cause pre-ignition and pinging.

THANKS Dell!!!

The transmission is at the shop and the technician is looking it over and will have a parts list.