The annular ring broke and a lot of internal parts broke in the process.

If I cannot find a replacement OD unit at a reasonable cost then I will try to rebuild this one.

I understand that the relay box (on the engine side of the dash panel) is different and I also understand that the wiring therefore would also be different however if the physical size of the R-11 is the same as the R-9 then I was hoping to install the R-11 on the back of the transmission in place of the R-9 and extend the solenoid wires to the passenger side of the car and use the longer R-11 solenoid ...in other words...same electric brain but different overdrive unit.

Has anyone done this?

If not then I need to find a R-9 Overdrive Unit.

Bill

The overdrive in my dad's Packard Series 22 is bad (the case and the shaft are good).

Does anyone know where I can pick one up?

Is the R-11 physically interchangeable with the R-9 but using the R-9 relay panel and solenoid (in other words...when they upgraded to the R-11 overdrive it was done because the R-11 was a better/stronger design and since they were replacing the OD unit they changed the electronics to a better design as well however the question is... will the R-11 swap into the R-9 location and function properly without having to swap out the relay box, wiring, and solenoid)?

THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR HELP (Cyber yelling intended)!!!!

Bill

Thanks for the feedback.

Autozone was able to cross reference the part number you provided to a Luberliner LAF 1782 (or a WIX 46094) paper element filter and it works perfectly!!!

Here are some pictures.

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I was looking at that same unit. drilling out the center hole if done properly would not have any effect on balance as long as the hole was exact. The four bolts that bolt it onto the hub would need to be the same diameter.

Does anyone know the part number for a round, paper element air filter to use on the round air cleaner assembly?

Looking at this one it looks like a 8 inch OD and a 6.5 inch ID round element that is 1.75 to 2.0 inches tall would work.

I am waiting for a return email from Wix however I thought I would ask the man who owns one.

Also, what is the purpose of the hollow cavity in the air cleaner assembly?


THANKS,

Bill

If I could re-resurrect this thread...Has anyone with a 327 CID engine mounted the 5 blade fan from the larger engine? If so what was needed to do the conversion?

THANKS!!!

Bill

THANKS Owen for the information!!!

>If you have hydraulic lifters you make the take-up reserve adjustment during engine assembly.

The engine has solid lifters.

I see that Kanter sells hydraulic lifters as an upgrade to their rebuild kit. Naturally manufacturers offered hydraulic lifters on the premium engines initially and then permanently on all engines because hydraulic lifters are reliable, quiet, and never require adjusting. Is this the case with the Kanter hydraulic lifter?

Does anyone have any experience with converting to hydraulic lifters? Other than simply replacing the parts and adjusting the lifters properly, what else is there to this conversion?

Does one need to pre-fill the lifters with oil (place lifter in a can of oil and push down on the push rod plunger with a pushrod and continue until the bubbles stop)?

Any advice from someone familiar with this conversion would be GREATLY appreciated.

The bearings will be greased as usual so it will be safe to spin the engine with the starter with the plugs out to prime and build up oil pressure ...good advice.

I assume it would be best to fill the oil filter with oil.

What is break in oil and how long does one run it in the new engine?

Regarding the lifters, how does one adjust them after the engine is assembled...it looks like the intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be removed.

I see Kanter sells hydraulic lifters... I initially thought that would be a good idea however it appears from the advice on this forum that they are not a good idea.

The engine looked to be green...my dad seems to think that it should be green however other posts indicate it should be grey...was any of these engines painted green from the factory?

THANKS AGAIN guys for all of the advice.

Greetings cyber car show friends!!! The engine is all apart and this is where we stand:

-Crankshaft was slightly worn so the journals will have to be turned 10 thousands.
-Cylinders were worn so a .030 over bore and new pistons is in order.
-Cam was slightly worn so a regrind is needed.
-Two lifters were excessively worn.
-Valve guides were worn
-Block deck and hear surface look good.

When putting this thing together, of course I would like to know everybody's suggestions on things that I should do,...or not do...and any tips to make the process easier and less distaterous. Any hints, tricks, suggestions you can throw (type) my way would be appreciated!!!

Questions (just the ones I thought of):

-What engine kits are better than others?
-Do the engine rebuild kits have modern style gaskets?
-Is rope style rear main seal the only option or is neoprene available (is one design better than the other)?
-What type of gear lube and what type of oil should I use?
-Ross told me the distributor needs to be indexed so that the pointer is pointing at the 730 position when the engine is at top dead center and the vacuum diaphragm needs to be pointing straight ahead (did I get this correctly)?
-The distributor and carb worked well before, do I need to do anything to them?
-Is it possible to spin up the oil pump with an electric drill to prime the engine?
-When starting the engine, my plan is to run it around 1500 rpm for 20 minutes before I let it idle... is this correct?
-Cooling system wise the flow divider is brass. I will remove the freeze plugs and have the block boiled out. Does the system need to be purged of air pockets?
-Any threads need to be sealed to prevent oil or coolant leaks?

THANKS!!!

Bill