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Board index » All Posts (TimCole)




Packard TSB 56T-20 - Low Oil Pressure
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Tim Cole
Hi Folks,

I am looking at TSB 56T-20 which addresses the kind of oil pressure problems people seem to be experiencing with the V-8 motor.

It calls for a revison on the oil pump and a new camshaft thrust plate.

Has anyone tried this method?

Thanks,

Posted on: 2009/10/25 11:44
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Re: Using 12 volts only for "starting" purposes
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Tim Cole
One other note on this. The case I handled with a car stuck in a trailer on a hill I forgot to do something the manual says to do with a slow cranking motor - depress the clutch. It may have only been heavy transmission oil that was keeping the car from cranking. Oh well, the 12 volt battery I keep on the shelf is usually only 75% charged anyway.

Posted on: 2009/10/25 11:06
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Re: Using 12 volts only for "starting" purposes
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Tim Cole
The next time I deal with a dead 6 volt battery situation I will jump a 12 volt battery and check the numbers. Usually I just put those cases on slow charge overnight because these parts are too scarce to subject to any abuse.

The cables I use have a lot of leakage which also buffers the potential.

Remember as well that I am talking about jumping from a 12 volt battery only and not a running vehicle.

Posted on: 2009/10/23 20:43
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Re: Electromatic 1,2,3
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Tim Cole
Hey thanks,

I had one of these come in which a short to voltage was wired into the overdrive and electromatic clutch. Once I straightened that out the unit functioned perfectly to the point that the car would creep just as the manual says upon closing the cushion point linkage. However, it was a low mileage car and already had a replacement clutch.

I think the biggest problem was the units being dismantled because of malfunction due to low motor vacuum.

Posted on: 2009/10/23 20:17
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Re: Using 12 volts only for "starting" purposes
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Tim Cole
Except for emergencies I would recommend checking the no-load voltage first and the cranking voltage second. For example, I had to cope with a situation of a car that was stuck up hill in a trailer with a dead battery. Now if you hook a 12 volt battery up to that thing and hit the starter, the voltage may only be 6.5 volts and the 12 volt battery is thus only dumping in boost amperes. The faster the starter is turning the less the current draw and thus the lower the likelyhood of damage to the starter. Six volt wiring is heavier to handle the higher current required to obtain a given level of power at lower voltage.

I dealt with one case where they were using a jump pack to start a 120 for years. And buying batteries by the wagon load. When I finally looked at the car I sent the regulator out for service because the ammeter was being pinned. I got a call that the unit was good (???) even after all that abuse. Next, I checked each wire and found that the reproduction harness was wrong and the generator was being full fielded all the time. After correcting the problem the charging system worked perfectly even after years of abuse. Although, I suspect low compression is hiding the true condition of the starting system.

I saw a film once of a brand new six volt car cranking over and it was really fast. Faster than any of these cars today, so I suspect that one day all these starters will finally die without new armatures and fields.

Posted on: 2009/10/21 17:01
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Electromatic 1,2,3
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Tim Cole
I actually have some experience with the Electromatic Clutch and the system is repairable given the parts are there and servicable, you have some good test equipment, and you understand that the unit will never work as well as new without NOS parts.

For Electromatic to function properly the motor must be in excellent condition with good compression (110psi) on all cylinders. I don't know what happens to Electromatic when starting on a steep grade, and given the service manual flatly states that the unit is temperamental, the whole idea makes me shudder. Although, Tom McCahill did test Electromatic and had no complaints other than - why?

Step 1: Make sure you have all the parts. Keep in mind that the numerous permutations serve as a caveat.

Step 2: Disconnect the lockout solenoid and check condition using an ohmmeter and fused jumper leads. If the windings are not open, jump the unit to battery voltage with the motor running. If the motor stalls or misfires you have a vacuum leak (consult service manual). If the Cushion Point is set up correctly then the clutch pedal should move as you watch. If yes, congradulations you have a working Electromatic Clutch!

Step 3: The electrical speed control items read like automatic transmission theory. Thus the name. Test the lockout switch (manual valve) for power using a test light. See if you get battery voltage (pump pressure) to the lockout solenoid. If yes, then the problem is in the speed control circuit (governor, throttle, and bypass valves). Electromatic should always work in neutral, first (breakaway), and second (intermediate)regardless of speed. If the relays (where applicable) are junk you can substitute 6 volt headlight relays and make up a new harness. Go to the Accelerator Switch and check function using an ohmeter. If the switch is good then check for continuity to ground. If no then Governor and Direct Speed Lockout are not functioning. Jump the switch to ground. If unit now functions the harness is good from there forward.

Step 4: Neither of these is required to make Electromatic work in a parking lot. The governor only functions to energize Electromatic below 22mph in third gear (direct drive). Thus, if Governor is junk you can ignore and rely only on the Direct Speed Switch. Be careful to observe that the cover screw acting as ground post for the governor is subject to corrosion and thus should always be modified by substitution of a #10 anti-shake washer. The Direct Speed Lockout is the normally closed control switch for Electromatic. If you are missing speed control parts then jump the system to ground as necessary. You can test the Governor by shifting into third gear with your foot on the clutch. If you feel Electromatic lock out you have a Governor problem. The Accelerator Switch is in series with Governor and does not affect the Electromatic Cushion Point.

Theoretically the Electromatic Clutch is a superior method of clutch control - especially for operators of truck fleets whose drivers routinely destroy clutches. However, Packard was building the unit to sell cars and likely only intended the feature as a temporarly fix until the ultimate development - Ultramatic (?).

Recently someone argued with me that anything on these cars is repairable given money. That is like saying all that is necessary to replace a Stradivarius Violin is a good insurance policy. If the only problem is money why can't one of these rich people build a time machine and get me some new parts?

Hope this helps anyone who wants to experiment with their Electromatic Clutch and perhaps have some fun at the next Packard show.

Posted on: 2009/10/16 11:50
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Re: Packard in Afghanistan
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Tim Cole
I was in Africa for two years and stumbled across the a custom Packard town car. No cameras allowed as it was a restricted zone. I sort of paused for a while and then got the hell out of there.

I turned down Afghan after seeing an execution video.

Well, actually I could only watch 15 seconds of it.

One of my acquantances got blown up so don't get too absorbed in these artifacts.

Posted on: 2009/9/28 18:50
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Re: Repairing Ultramatic
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Tim Cole
Getting the right fluid level can be a pain. I serviced one recently and I thought I got it right. Five minutes later I was taking fluid back out. The owner thought the car had a leak and was low, but almost everything I put in ended up being taken back out. So the leak was probably due to overfilling. The car has been sitting for months now with no puddles.

Filling ultramatic can be a total pain better done on a lift using a pump bottle calibrated in half pints. That is when there is no access plate on floor like is shown in the manual - oh brother.

If you replace the pan gasket, remove any dimples by the bolt holes, use the proper torque (10-12 ft lbs - that is snug using a little 1/4 drive ratchet), use a sealer sparingly and let the unit sit at least twenty four hours finger tight squish prior to torqeing.

I have had cars come in on the back of a wrecker because they wouldn't move. The transmissions were overfilled as a result of a special at xxxxxx xxxxxx or whatever.

The risk with ultramatic is that too low a level and the fluid gets hot and that is a whole new problem.

Packard had a lot of faith in the oil tightness of the unit and I do remember some original owner cars that did not leak at all.

Posted on: 2009/9/28 18:13
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Re: Fantastic Engine Noise Problem
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Tim Cole
Here is the picture I promised. Somebody put a file in the motor which rattles when the motor is running.

This is typical of what I deal with on a day to day basis.

Attach file:



jpg  (117.15 KB)
373_4ac139083fc94.jpg 1280X851 px

Posted on: 2009/9/28 17:32
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Re: Repairing Ultramatic
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Tim Cole
Hey, before you go any further did this problem start with the service work or was it already there?

If the problem just started perhaps the fluid level is too high or too low.

If the car moves without excess slip and the fluid was clean then the clutch is probably good.

You may just have stirred up some dirt which has gotten into a valve. I've seen these problems just go away if left to sit.

Some ultramatics are much better than others but they usually do okay if taken care of.

Check TSB's first before you start tearing into things.

Posted on: 2009/9/28 7:32
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