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Board index » All Posts (DavidPackard)




Re: spark plug wire sets for 1952
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DavidPackard
I made a set of wires for my '48 288 from 'stuff' I bought from www.Brillman.com. The wire is fabric covered with a gloss black finish. Straight ends . . . no boots at the plugs, but with boots at the distributor. Fred is quite right, soldering is not needed. Consider the radio suppressed ignition wires, with a carbon impregnated synthetic core. The core is folded over the outer insulation and the terminal end wraps around holding the core sandwiched between the terminal and the wire diameter. That technique works just fine with metal core wires . . . which by the way are not always copper.
With respect to the wire separators; mine were also some type of Kryptonite and broke as soon as I tried to remove the old ignition wires. I used a strip of 1/8 rubber to come-up with a replacement. I went over the deep end and made some 4, 3, and 2 hole versions, which are clearly not original.
With respect to the 8 hole wire separator that is directly under the coil. Treat that piece with some care . . . a 'new' replacement is worth more than a wire set. The separator in my '54 was still elastic and could be deflected enough to install the wires. On the other hand my '48 separator was again some derivative of Kryptonite, so I opened the separator with a putty knife just enough to slip the wire through the hole. The distributor end of each wire was made with the wire installed in the car.
My '48 has an Autolite distributor which physically rotates when the vacuum advance comes into play. I made sure I didn't create a 'banjo string' situation between the distributor cap and the 8 hole separator under the coil. I also tried to route the wires such that no wire crossed over another at the distributor end . . . I've never been able to tell if that's the way they left the factory, but plates 84 & 87 suggest that the pace of the production line did not lend itself to paying that close attention to something that picayune.
I would encourage Tim49 to make an ignition wire set himself . . . just mind your P&Qs with respect to the firing order . . . and cover the fender, you'll be leaning-in for an hour or so.
dp

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Posted on: 2017/2/9 12:20
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Re: Battery or Generator Problem
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DavidPackard
I hate to admit this, but in my youth I discovered the functional relationship between a loose fan belt and the health of the charging system. Much later in life I noticed another one of my cars was not charging, so the first thing I checked was the fan belt . . . and don't you know that one was loose also. However in that case the real culprit was the water pump bearing had gone bad and that small amount of movement loosened the belt. The deluge of coolant followed the next day.

The point Fred is to check all of the aforementioned electrical system checks but don't forget the mechanical side of the system.

dp

Posted on: 2016/12/4 15:37
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Re: repair of fuel gauge float in '49 Custom 8
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DavidPackard

Posted on: 2016/8/7 22:31
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Re: 1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size
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DavidPackard
Avoid the urge to use an impact wrench as the torque values are 'reasonable'. The key to a successful pinion seal replacement is returning the pinion to exactly the same position it was in prior to the repair (assuming all was well with the rear end except the seal). Achieving this goal will maintain the same bearing preload and gear mesh geometries . . . very important if you want a quite differential . . . no humming allowed, one must know the lyrics.
Step one of this procedure is to 'match mark' the pinion nut and pinion shaft. This is normally done by 'center punching' the nut and center portion of the pinion shaft. I would also 'match mark' the yoke, and essentially have three marks aligned. Before you remove the pinion nut I believe I would attempt to make an estimate of the pinion bearing preload. Make sure both wheels are removed and the brakes 'backed-off' to zero drag . . . emergency off. Depending on how cold it is in the shop I would suggest that the gear oil is drained before the rotational drag is investigated. With the emergency brakes on I would also attempt to measure the amount of pinion gear motion, both in and out of the carrier, and rotational play (emergency brake is holding the ring gear from moving). The shop manual suggests a 0.004 - 0.006 pinion gear backlash. Since you'll be using the yoke, which is about 1/3 the size of the ring gear, you should have about 0.001 - 0.002 back lash at the yoke, or just about at the limits of 'feel'. If you make this check and report 'little or no back lash', then you're likely OK. I would also measure the distance from the flat end of the pinion gear to the face of the nut, that will come in handy going back together.
Step two is to loosen and remove the pinion nut. The referenced Service Counselor had a photo of the special tool to hold the yoke. I would attempt to make something that serves the same purpose. Note that one of the leaf springs holds the tool while you are focused on either loosening or tightening the pinion nut. I would also try to estimate the torque required to break the nut loose, but just for reference later on. Pinion nut torque is not a critical characteristic, bearing preload, measured by the amount of bearing drag, is the key characteristic, along with pinion to ring geometries (back lash and pattern).
After replacing the seal, step three is to reinstall the yoke and nut, and align those three punch marks. Initially the torque on the pinion nut will be quite low and then when you're getting close the torque will abruptly rise, you'll know the 'feel' from the torque it took to remove the nut. The three marks will almost be aligned (the yoke and pinion shaft will be grossly aligned by virtue that you've aligned to the correct yoke/pinion splines), it is the mark on the nut that is being moved into alignment. At this point the dimension from the end of the pinion to the face of the nut should be the same as the initial measurement. Align, but do not pass-by the correct position . . . the game is over if you 'over torque' the pinion nut, but I suspect a lot of us are guilty of backing-up the nut's position. Just as long as you haven't gone too far I guess it's OK to back-up a little bit. The torque required to move the nut that very last amount should be about the same as the value measured during step two.
Step four is some confidence building by repeating a few of the checks made before the disassembly. Does the pinion have about the same 'free play', and does it take about the same amount of torque to spin the pinion. A flaw in this logic is that the new seal should have more drag than the seal that was removed, so the torque to slowly rotate the pinion is likely to be more after the seal replacement, all else being equal. The germane section in the shop manual will have the correct pinion bearing drag for the pinion and seal alone, no other parts, which is not the case here. We will be comparing the drag before and after the seal replacement. Avoid the urge to compare this confidence building torque to the values in the shop manual . . . the procedure in the manual does not have the carrier bearings, axle bearings, or axle seals in their measurement.
Note the key role the old pinion nut plays in this procedure. If you also replace the pinion nut I would be at a loss on how to achieve the sameness in the pinion position without the carrier out of the car. I know the procedure sounds a bit complicated, but it's straight forward. Those confidence checks I've suggested don't need to be measured with instruments, your hand is good enough. Let's say before you disassemble the unit, you spin the yoke with the brakes backed-off, and it will rotate a little bit after you let go. What I'm suggesting is that after the seal is replaced and the same check is made the amount of 'free rotation' should not be 10 or 15 minutes of coast down, nor should it take all your strength with a breaker bar if you could hand rotate before the seal replacement.
Have fun on the cardboard . . . please remember gravity always wins, use lots of jack stands if the job is done on the garage floor.

Posted on: 2016/7/27 18:53
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Re: 54' pacific brakes??
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DavidPackard
I see it in the '55 & '56 Accessories section of the parts book. From the photo it's not clear to me if there is a siphon, and if so how it is started. If the tube was mounted at the bottom of the auxiliary reservoir in a short amount of time the fluid and air would 'change places'. Most modern cars have adopted a scheme quite similar to this accessory, namely; a visual inspection without removing a cap is the means to check the brake fluid level. Once you know the level is low then the wrenches come-out. Seems to me the same is true for the coolant level.

Posted on: 2016/7/24 19:09
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Re: 54' pacific brakes??
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DavidPackard
I hate to admit this, but one day my BTV equipped '54 Cavalier brakes became almost non-existent. Poor maintenance on my part was the cause. Not only was the fluid level extremely low the brake adjustment was far from being correct. Filling the reservoir and adjusting the brake shoes on all four wheels corrected the poor brake condition. It's been about two years since my little episode of both feet on the brake pedal, and there have been no problems since. I suspect lack of maintenance and a rush to condemn has given the BTV sub-system a bad name. While the master cylinder reservoir cap can be reached from above (with lots of extensions on the socket), I find it easier to add fluid with the car elevated. Just be sure to clean the area before removing the cap. For starters I would inspect and correct the fluid level followed by adjusting the shoes on all four wheels, and while the car 'in the air' I would also bleed the system.
Now for a bit more of the story: As a teen I owned a '55 Chevy and as this was my first car I purchased a 'GM approved' shop manual to have a bit of good technical advice when I was learning about cars. While researching my '54 Packard situation I pulled out the Chevy manual, and much to my surprise in the power brake section was a BTV unit. Unlike the Packard application the Chevy mounted the entire unit horizontally high of the fire wall, and used a 'suspended' pedal assembly. In approximately 1/2 of the manual illustrations there is a reservoir cover shown that restored the Chevy reservoir service cap to the horizontal. I have also seen 'toe board mounted' GM BTV reservoir covers with a long 'filler tube' with a dipstick built into the cap. From this I've concluded the BTV was designed to be quite adaptable to either 'fire wall' mounted, or below the toe board mounting, and if mounted low some manufactures made maintenance a bit easier by installing a filler tube. I'm not sure that a '3 on the tree' equipped car could use the GM filler tube, but any design that makes servicing the master cylinder a bit easier would be beneficial.
dp

Posted on: 2016/7/24 11:46
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Re: '52 Grill Emblem Surround Holding Pin Repair???
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DavidPackard
If we are talking about the one smooth pin, one threaded pin emblem design then:

Modern automobiles frequently will use a 'double stick' tape to attach emblems and trim pieces. I would investigate the use a high strength, two part epoxy to reinstall the broken pins or perhaps thin tubing as replacement for the damaged parts, and double stick tape to ensure the load on the epoxy doesn't get out of hand.

I think the key to success with epoxy is the 'purchase' area that the epoxy has with the old and new parts, so anything you can do along this line will help. The suggestion of tubing is to have epoxy both inside and outside the 'pin', so a load path within the epoxy is possible. Flaring the tubing would also help for pins that are at right angles to the emblem.

I would also investigate the possibility of a thin flat plate with the mounting features welded to the plate, and then that plate epoxied to the emblem . . . lots of contact area for the epoxy.

I've also had some success with magnets holding things together, but I suspect that train left the station if the grill is cast 'white' metal.

I would avoid applying heat until I ran out of alternate schemes


dp

Posted on: 2016/7/16 16:43
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Re: 1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size
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DavidPackard
Let's try the 'attach file' process one more time.

I've tried 'Browse' (select the correct file), and then 'Attach File' . . . nothing seems to happen.

Oh well.

The short answer is 1 7/16 inch. See Service Counselor Volume 27 Number 8.

To view the Service Counselor data click on the Packard Service Index menu item, click on the 1951-1954 selection, and finally the Rear Axle selection. The referenced SC is titled Flange Holding Tool.

dp

Posted on: 2016/7/16 15:51
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Re: 1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size
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DavidPackard
qbert
I pulled together some information on the pinion nut question, and placed that into the attached file. I would think the $7.25 price for the special tool would be well worth it . . . where do I place my order ?
dp

Posted on: 2016/7/16 15:42
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Re: engine question
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DavidPackard
During manufacturing drilled passages are machined in the engine block effectively connecting the main oil gallery to each main bearing. These threaded plugs are low on the right side of the block and there will be one drilled passage per main bearing. Take a look at pages 2 - 4 in the Performance section of the 1948 Fact Book (on this site). You can see the threaded plugs and centered oil pump (distributor) on the 356 engine, and the 'forward' located pump on the 327/288 engines with fewer threaded plugs. On page 7 in the same section is a photo of a bare 327/288 engine block. You can see the 5 main bearings and the forward location of the distributor bore. Likewise on page 21 is a graphic describing the lubrication system, again the 327/288 engine is featured in this diagram, the cross drilled passages are highlighted.
The location of the oil pump / distributor, or the number of those little threaded plugs should confirm the engine model type . . . not necessarily the displacement, but the model type without question.
dp

Posted on: 2016/7/12 19:20
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