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Board index » All Posts (kevinpackard)




Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#31
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kevinpackard
For some reason I was thinking that the voltage was converted to 12V for the radio. Not sure what I was thinking there. Thanks for clarifying!

Posted on: 9/8 21:12
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#32
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kevinpackard
Quote:

JeromeSolberg wrote:
I thought your car was 6v?

I used a benchtop power supply like this. They are handy to have around anyhow:

On Amazon for $50:
DC Power Supply Variable,0-30 V / 0-10 A LW-K3010D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital,with Alligator Leads US Power Cord Used for Spectrophotometer and lab Equipment Repair


Does the radio operate off 6V or is it stepped up to 12V?

Posted on: 9/8 18:10
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Re: Packards for sale on Copart.com
#33
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kevinpackard
The estimated price means nothing on Copart. What matters is if the vehicle has a reserve or not, which we can't see on that particular vehicle.

If no reserve, then the car will likely sell for very cheap.

Posted on: 9/8 18:06
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#34
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kevinpackard
Two questions:

1.) For a 12V power supply to test with...can I just use whatever 12V wall wart and put alligator clips on it? Or do I need an actual benchtop power supply?

2.) Will the tubes light even without the vibrator working?

Posted on: 9/8 16:43
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Re: Packards for sale on Copart.com
#35
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kevinpackard
I've seen one or two on Copart before. That 1953 Cavalier looks really nice. It wouldn't take too much work to get it cleaned up and running well. Chrome and paint look great, and the interior is serviceable.

The 49 has a surprisingly nice interior. Needs paint and probably the standard maintenance items. But it's a 2 door, which is awesome. It'll be interesting to see how much it goes for.

-Kevin

Posted on: 9/8 15:50
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#36
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kevinpackard
Thanks everyone. This is my first experience with anything involving vacuum tubes, so I'm coming at this with zero knowledge. So far the only thing I know is that the vibrator is supposed to hum.

I have the parts list/schematic from the link I provided, so I'll have to pull the front off the radio and figure out which capacitors are for power, and do a thorough inspection of everything. So far from the back the internals look pretty good with no signs of corrosion.

Jerome, that thread is one of the many I was reading through last night as I was researching what to do next. Thanks for providing all those links.

I don't have a benchtop 12V supply. What should I get?

-Kevin

Posted on: 9/8 13:58
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Re: KPack
#37
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kevinpackard
Had a few more minutes tonight and was able to fully disconnect the radio.

The radio removal is hampered by the wires for the rear speaker. They enter the radio box from the bottom through a tight rubber grommet, and the connections are made internally. The other end of the wires go over to the rear speaker control knob (left side of the dash), where they are soldered in place.

After evaluating my options, I figured it would be easiest to remove the rear plate of the radio in the car, then unplug the speaker wires from the radio and pull them out of the grommet.

With the radio free I took it outside and blasted it with air to get the huge amount of sand out. Now that it's all clean I may take a stab at seeing if I can get it working. I downloaded schematics from Auto Radio Schematics and will start watching some Youtube videos to see if I can figure it out. The light on the dial turns on when I turn the radio on, but no sound and no buzzing from the vibrator.

As a side note, when I opened the radio I found two original schematics for the radio. One is correct, and one is not. Pretty cool to find paper that is nearly 70 years old.

Two of my Bowden cables are broken, the other two seem to be fine. I'm going to order some new cable and will cut it to length.

-Kevin

Attach file:



jpg  Speaker cable.jpg (257.39 KB)
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jpg  Rear speaker control knob.jpg (222.17 KB)
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jpg  Speaker wire connections.jpg (352.73 KB)
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jpg  Cleaned up interior of radio.jpg (320.77 KB)
1059_631a10ad927e1.jpg 1024X768 px

jpg  Original schematics.jpg (298.40 KB)
1059_631a10b303477.jpg 1024X768 px

Posted on: 9/8 10:56
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
#38
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kevinpackard
Quote:

Wat_Tyler wrote:
While sitting at the left turn signal, an early 50-something Packard tooled through headed the way I was going. Couldn't catch him. It was green and had lots of "patina," which we called "surface rust" when I was a younger fellow. No oil smoke cloud. I missed my turn to Home Depot.


I have only ever seen one other Packard on the road....a 48-50 Deluxe (didn't catch the year) on the freeway near Seattle. I've never seen another one at a show, but then I haven't been to very many of those. I would love to see more, but everyone around here seems to roll with the more common makes.

-Kevin

Posted on: 9/7 20:56
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Re: KPack
#39
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kevinpackard
Getting off my rear and finally working on the car.

It's getting colder here, which means that I need to address the broken Bowden cables for my heater controls.

I started the removal of the radio and heater controls last night. It's pretty straightforward, but can be tricky to access the bolts for the heater controls behind the dash. It'll be interesting getting them back in. The worst part was trying to figure out a path for the radio to come out. It is almost too big for the space.

There was a TON of sand in there. Once I pulled off the faceplate I was surprised at how much was stuck right behind it.

I removed the heater controls and one of them had bent levers. Looked like someone nailed it with their legs as they were scooting around. Some rags to protect the metal and two sets of pliers made quick work of that.

All the levers have some corrosion on them. At first I was contemplating stripping the controls down to separate parts, then learn how to nickel plate to try and get some shine back. But nickel plating doesn't give the high shine that chrome does, so I decided to try and polish what I could. I used 0000 steel wool and a lubricant to clean off as much rust as possible. Then did some wax over that. It's definitely better than it was, but I can't do much about the pitting. Every piece of chrome on the car has moderate pitting. With the cost of chrome these days there is no way I'm going to pay for every bit to get redone. I would much rather spend the money on reupholstering the seats and door panels.

More to come when I get back to it tonight.

-Kevin

Attach file:



jpg  Sand behind coverplate.jpg (279.09 KB)
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jpg  Bent heater controls.jpg (273.08 KB)
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jpg  Straightened out.jpg (142.21 KB)
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jpg  Rusted control arms.jpg (237.46 KB)
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jpg  Cleaned and polished arms.jpg (258.84 KB)
1059_6319081404578.jpg 768X1024 px

Posted on: 9/7 16:07
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Re: Breaking news!!! The Louis Abelove parts collection
#40
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kevinpackard
So glad to see the collection is going to be made available, rather than never seeing the light of day. Thanks Mike for taking this on.

And I don't envy your road trip. Those Penske trucks can be LOUD....I drove one from Texas to WA and it was brutal. Noise cancelling headphones were my saving grace.

Posted on: 8/25 12:23
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