they are made by metro molded rubber part #RB 7550

1951 Hearsehttps://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/puyallup-1951-packard-hearse-ambulance/7142571992.html

1941 110https://lincoln.craigslist.org/cto/d/lincoln-1941-packard/7140740103.html

1956 400https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/d/claremont-1956-packard-400/7140753274.html

Try (715) 308-3001

A 1937 Station Sedan

https://offerup.com/item/detail/858932094/

1936 120 on offerup

https://offerup.com/item/detail/828626774/

If you can rotate the engine at 15# on all rod bolts, tighten one rod to 40# and rotate. If it still rotates easily go to the next. When it becomes hard to rotate, you have found the problem.

I don't use bearing guard. Use the oil that it will be running in service. Also check the caps. Are any swapped or backward?

I would not run the engine without the proper torque applied to the rod nuts. Bolts need to be stretched to provide the proper clamp load.

1954 with a/c

https://hanford.craigslist.org/cto/d/hanford-packard-cavalier-1954/7062888679.html

If anyone has ever seen someone burned by hot fluid, pressurized or not, I'm sure they will agree that a few dollars to add a safety feature such as a barb is money well spent.

As rubber compounds and antifreeze formulas (alcohol vs glycol) have changed, I won't rely on friction/memory and clamping of a hose to a smooth metal tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-29012

You will need to have the ends rolled or create barbs with weld to keep the hose sections from slipping. Mandrel bends are constant diameter.