Here's the link to the head interchange chart. All the heads interchange but they produce varying compression ratios.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=25667&post_id=246062#forumpost246062

The 4-way fitting measurements you report below is is the same as what I have on my car, 1953 Cavalier - which is what came with it when I bought it. The lifters were quiet then.

Did you check the lifter-valve stem clearance? 0,030 to 0.070 using a special gague, or the gauge can be made by removing the spring from a lifter. Possible that one or more lifters is tight after the valve seats were ground.

The lifters can be tested. Look at the YouTube video from Speedwell garage.

Speedwell Garage testing hydraulic lifters

I have a copy of this tester and could mail it to you for the cost Ross charged me for making it, $220. But it may take a little while for me to get it packaged up and mailed. Or you could contact Ross himself.

These lifter plungers are the same as used on the other 1951-54 engines. New reproduction lifters are available from Kanter and Max Merrit.

New reproduction lifters can be obtained from Kanter and Max. Max also sells the gauge, or it can be obtained from Pacific Northwest Packard club. Note Max sells two different lifter gouges, one they say is for NOS and one for their reproduction lifters.

It should be noted that the stuff from Motion Industries that was $16/foot is also "Flexaust", specifically

Flexaust
CWGP 3 in

So basically this stuff should be available from many different industrial supply folks.

Here is a thread about drum pullers. There are a few more, the universal 3-arms ones seem to work for most people, but some people have suggested the 5-arm ones.


Here's a video about it, using a 5-arm puller:

Removing a brake drum, 1947 Packard

There are a number of threads on this topic, here is one:

Pulling the rear hub/drum

You could have an internal leak. It's important to retorque at this point. 100 miles is a rough guide, and dependent on usage. The most important thing is heat cycles.

Re-torque, and try the stop-leak stuff, which works, I don't believe it will hurt the heater, those aren't that complicated in these cars.

This stuff would work, it looks like. Sold per foot. Neoprene-covered fabric hose. Expensive, like $16/foot.

https://www.motion.com/products/sku/00968432

My apologies

I'm thinking I'm going to send out the following to get shaved down 0.010"

1E 0.038 -> 0.048
1I 0.039 -> 0.049

2I 0.039 -> 0.049
2E 0.035 -> 0.045

4E 0.038 -> 0.048

8E 0.038 -> 0.048

Then all the valves will have between 0.040" and 0.050" clearance

Here is what I have measured. Factory spec is between 0.030" and 0.070".

Suggestions for how much/whether to shave down any of these valve stems appreciated. Thank you.

1E 0.038
1I 0.039

2I 0.039
2E 0.035

3E 0.048
3I 0.049

4I 0.040
4E 0.038

5E 0.046
5I 0.043

6I 0.047
6E 0.043

7E 0.046
7I 0.043

8I 0.046
8E 0.038