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Board index » All Posts (fredpuhn)




Re: Coat Hooks in 50 Packard Deluxe
#31
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Fred Puhn
My 1950 Series 23 Deluxe 8 did not have coat hooks in it. The coat hooks are listed in the Packard accessories manual however.

Posted on: 2016/11/20 13:23
Fred Puhn
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Interior knob colors
#32
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Fred Puhn
I have a 1950 Series 23 Deluxe 8 sedan. The interior plastic knobs do not match. Several are white, and these were purchased to replace missing or broken knobs. I want to make everything match, but the people who sell the knobs say they are available in 'ivory' and other colors are available. What should I order?

To me the term 'ivory' means white, like the mismatched knobs I already have. One Packard vendor said the Series 23 had only one color, and she called it 'ivory'. Does anyone know the proper color?

Posted on: 2016/11/18 18:05
Fred Puhn
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Re: 23rd series (all) rooftop antenna
#33
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Fred Puhn
My 23rd series sedan came with a rooftop antenna, but it was broken. I tried to restore it myself after buying several used antennas for parts. I found it was very fragile and difficult to work on and the ball on the tip was missing on all my parts. The flat spring inside is not available and breaks easily. The cast parts are pot metal and they corrode. Rechroming pitted pot metal is very expensive.
After spending a lot of money I finally gave up and bought a restored one from Tucson Packard for about $150. This antenna is a bad design and I wish my car had come with a fender mounted antenna.

Posted on: 2016/9/5 16:54
Fred Puhn
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Re: jrbuzz's 1949 Deluxe Eight Touring Sedan
#34
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Fred Puhn
Nice Packard. It is the same as mine except for the color. I did the paint, wiring, upholstery, and lots of other things to get my Deluxe 8 going and looking nice. I suggest you put in the wiring before you put the engine in the car so you can stand in the engine compartment. Wiring seems to be harder than anything else. Also I would suggest pulling the dash out to do the wiring.

Posted on: 2016/8/20 22:25
Fred Puhn
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Re: 1949 Packard Weatherstrip and Wiring Harness
#35
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Fred Puhn
I painted and rewired my 1950 Series 23 Deluxe 8 sedan. I got the rubber (all of it including weatherstrip) from Steele. They had almost everything on the shelf. The wiring harness I got from Rhode Island. They are good.
When I removed the old harness I put a strip of masking tape around the end of each wire and marked it as I removed it. That was very helpful later when I tried to solve problems. My wiring was shorted and so it was useless to run electrical test before I took it out. I wrote down each removal step in a notebook so I could put it back the same way I removed it.
The wiring under the dash was a very difficult job for an old guy. I had to remove EVERYTHING under the dash to get at the wires. It might have been easier to pull the metal dash out of the car and have its woodgrain redone at the same time. I did get the gages restored when they were out. I also restored the heater because I had to take part of it out to do the wiring.
There are some gaskets for wires going through the firewall that were not available from Steele. If you want to paint the firewall do it with the wires out of the car.
I changed the car slightly and put in fog lights, an electric fuel pump for starting, backup light, and a kill switch. I added those extra wires later because the original harness did not have them. I should have put the extra wires in as I installed the new harness and saved some time. I made a big error and replaced the headliner before I needed to replace the wiring. I just left those overhead hidden wires in place and so far have not had problems.
The hardest item to get at is the ignition switch wires. Hook those up as early as you can, right after the main harness is passed through the firewall.
Take lots of photos of everything before you remove anything. Do not cut the harness as you remove it so you know how the new one goes back in.
I hope this helps you.

Posted on: 2016/4/26 17:21
Fred Puhn
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Re: 1949 23rd series resto
#36
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Fred Puhn
I restored a Series 23 Deluxe 8 over the last 4 years and have a number of good parts available. Please send me a list of your needs and I will check on it. Email fredpuhn@cox.net or call (619)475-1155. Fred.

Posted on: 2015/4/23 10:06
Fred Puhn
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Re: 30 cents on the dollar
#37
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Fred Puhn
I totally agree with the economics of restoring a Series 23 Packard sedan. I have about $50,000 in mine and its probably worth less than half that. I did a lot of the work myself too. It is a fine car, almost without issues. I have learned that the cheapest way to own a collector car is to buy the best car you can afford. The low purchase price for a car with issues usually is what throws us off.

The most costly issues in my experience are:
1. Rust
2. Body damage
3. Missing parts
4. Paint and chrome needs
5. Mechanical

Posted on: 2015/2/2 13:05
Fred Puhn
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Re: Need Exterior Trim for 23rd
#38
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Fred Puhn
Sam,
I checked the curvature of the NOS part I have for sale. It curves in both directions, so I can see why you need a better shaped part. It would be nearly impossible to hand form the curvature the "hard way" due to the stiffness in that direction.
Also the part on my car is a close match to the length of the door. Very little paint shows at each end. Since the NOS part is about 1/4" shorter than the one on my car there would only be about 1/8" of paint showing at each end if the part was centered on the door. That would look fine in my opinion. On my car the length of the part that I installed is the longest that would fit without hanging over the door.

Posted on: 2015/1/15 0:53
Fred Puhn
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Re: Step By Steps to restore?
#39
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Fred Puhn
I had similar issues about 4 years ago when I bought my 1950 Deluxe 8. I wanted a Packard in nice driving condition that I could have weekend fun with. I got a pretty original car that was rust free, but it needed everything. That was my fault because I got a false description and misleading photos and I never physically checked out the car. I have been repairing and restoring it bit by bit as I drove the car, and that kept it from becoming a "pile of parts." However it is very inefficient to do that. For example I had to rewire the car. I replaced the headliner before I realized it needed rewiring, so that prevented me from rewiring the wiring under the headliner. There are many other examples.
The problem was that I never expected to spend over $40,000 restoring the car, but it ended up that way. If I had a clear goal and budget in mind I would have bought a restored car. That would have been cheaper and I would not be so horribly underwater.
My advice is to make the car run reliably, shine it up, and drive it. If you want a restored car, sell the one you have and buy a restored car. It is cheaper and faster to do that.

Posted on: 2015/1/15 0:34
Fred Puhn
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Re: Restoration Cost
#40
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Fred Puhn
You are lucky you do not have to pay for bodywork. The rust repair will probably be the big unknown cost adder. In my recent experience I have spent the following amounts for paint and bodywork in professional shops:

1950 Packard Touring Sedan - $8000 for paint but nearly zero rust repair required

1948 Alfa Romeo coupe - $100,000 for paint and massive rust repair in hidden places

I hope your Packard is not anywhere as bad as my Alfa.

Posted on: 2014/12/31 12:59
Fred Puhn
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