Thanks for the info guys. As a follow-up, if I were to buy another cannister on ebay (Atlas, Fram, etc) that went on various 30s vehicles, that the designation for a 6 cylinder v 8 cylinder is all about size of the cannister; but if there is a restriction at the inlet, then maybe that's not all that important?

Apparently the oil filter cannister was a purchased option on many engines. My 1936_120b did not have one installed, but there was a FRAM unit in the trunk (maybe from another vehicle). Of course finding the right filter or cross-match might be a problem.

Does anyone have a straight 8 engine photo showing the oil filter cannister installed (I assume on the driver's side). Was it mounted to the engine or firewall? are there specific plugs in the engine for the lines?

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My 36_120B only came with a frame of one on the drivers side, but I snagged a pair off ebay about 3 months ago for $19 and sent to the upholsterer to match with the seat recovering currently ongoing.

Before making the switch to a packard several months ago, I curated 2 mercedes club websites for 10 years. After I sold my 53 mercedes in June, I turned the site over to 2 capable members. It was an interesting experience learning html, php, installing software, dealing with crashes and bugs, installing and maintaining forums, etc. webspace and server issues, FTP. Spent 2 years with Joomla CMS software. All this only to mention a supportive understanding of Big Kev's contributions and efforts in pulling the switches, bells and whistles behind the scenes for this wonderful site. Thanks

SUPER ! Thanks for your quick help on this.

Does anyone know the lbs of torque for (new head gasket) nuts on a 282 (*straight 8) (1936_120B) or where I can find the settings reference, AND is there a special sequence of torquing the head nuts (as with other vehicles)?

I've inspected the pistons, cylinders, valves, etc cleaned up the piston tops,etc... have a new head gasket,cleaned the passages, using the old thick washers and ready to reinstall.

got some new head nuts from Merritt and ready to reinstall the head. Does anyone recommend additional sealant for the head gasket, or just bare as is?

Thanks for your help

well looks like I'm a month behind on responses, but I have been monitoring this wonderful packard forum daily.

Been working on the Packard every chance and have images to post, when I get a chance and on the right computer.

There is no significance to the avatar, other than I enjoy oldtime pictures of families with cars, etc....

Send me an email (axmanj@170220.com) and picture reference and I'll check in my stuff I have pulled off my 1936 120B (if the same); sorry, haven't learned enough yet to be dangerous about these cars. I am going with a 58 amp Alternator upgrade on my restoration..even though the originality police will probably hunt me down for a ticket...but I have spent too many years following the rules of OEM on these functional items and now more into upgrading with improved technology for a driver only.

Still learning about packard models, but I see that by around 1940, Packard made several changes overall....things started getting more round, and the split windshield (which eventually lead to curved glass). Nice project...
Seems to be in good restorable shape.


You are ahead of me in restoration though....I have just removed the front fenders and grill and started cleaning the engine. Started wire brush the piston tops and engine and removing stuff to get to other stuff (which always seems to be the case). Part of me wants to get the engine running, while my instinct is to separate the body and work on the entire frame. There are always regrets when you avoid instincts.....I have to keep saying to myself, what's the rush, do it right...this will probably be my last project car....at least a compromise is knowing that I can remove the body shell and while working on the frame, get the engine running too. I've ordered a new head gasket and probably have the engine ready to paint in a couple weekends.

Were all packard engines painted Green?

After getting the project in my shop in Frankfort, Kentucky, I began to remove the interior, front fenders and grill. Also wanted to check the condition of the engine, so removed the head and soaked the cylinders.

This past wednesday, I finally removed the front clip, and put a torque wrench on the crank nut and turned (counterclockwise) the engine by hand. I was elated that the engine was not totally frozen, which was inspiring to save the original engine in tact and proceed from there.

Today, I hope to begin cleaning the engine and area and eventually try to crank it over with the battery and starter.