Generally yes, but IIRC they will have individual part numbers and are a companion set and still require
setting up in the pumpkin. They really become a "matched set' when they wear in together. Then you should not separate the set. However, the person was given one unused crown wheel and two unused pinions. The problem is which pinion is the companion part number to the crown wheel. I have a number of companion sets in the Club Stock so I shall see if any numbers co incide. I know that I have seen a listing of Crown wheel/ pinion matched numbers but cannot locate it at present.

Hello all, someone has asked me a curly question. He is replacing his original crown wheel 333952-11-50 pinion set up with a numerically lower set up. He has a crown wheel 357810-45-11 and two pinions...
6-49 30661 or 6-49 30765. I recall having seen a crown wheel/ pinion listing but cannot find it in the Service letters or Parts listing. Is anyone able to advise which of these pinions will suit the 45-11 crown wheel Please? Peter Toet. Technical Officer, Packard Automobile Club of Australia.

Hello all, it is apparently a Dietrich Detroit body plate for his 626 Speedster. Can someone please advise where this should be affixed?

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  Dietrich body plate 1929 626 Speedster.jpg (99.15 KB)

Absolutely agree, I checked my 533 and the plate on my 533 is 304. still on the original timber floor in the back in the same position as your 633. I shall get Will to send me a pic of the plate. Since ( if it is authentic) it was a 626 Speedster it may have a special Packard plate. I am quite intrigued as I had no idea a genuine RHD 626 Speedster was in OZ. He apparently also has a 645 RHD rumble seat coupe. The outcome could be interesting.

Hello David, It is not for this plate. it is a plate about the same size but with two number sets on it. It is for Will Kirkby who apparently has a 626 RHD 385 Speedster (yes, I never knew that there was one in OZ). I shall go over to Jacobs Street and have a look at where the plate is on my 533. Thanks for the input. Peter T

Helo all, Attached are Packard Service letters on fitting 288 engines to 37 120C ( but will suffice for any 282 engine fit). I used these instructions to fit a 288 ( 327 plus 40 thou) to my 1938 Richards Touring. It runs very well with lots of pep. I also fitted an R6 OD as it didn't need the governor and less X frame massage. using Holley 600 carb. I used the 282 front engine mount. It is a bit fiddly but you should get another 60-70 hp out of the old girl.

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  288 Engine Installation in 120C Models pg 1.JPG (188.44 KB)


  288 Engine Installation in 120C Models pg 2.JPG (165.74 KB)


  288 Engine Installation in 120C Models pg 3.JPG (216.06 KB)


  288 Engine Kits for Right Hand Drive pg 1.JPG (242.27 KB)


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  288 Engine Kits for Right Hand Drive pg 3.JPG (310.95 KB)


  1938 Packard 120 031.jpg (156.93 KB)

Hello all, I am the tech officer for the Packard Auto club of Australia and have been asked "where is the mounting place for the Body Plate on a 626". This is not the delivery plate on the firewall. Please advise and a pic would be good if possible, Thanks.

As we used to tell people with the Army RM285 Mack trucks. "The fuel gauge does not have to be accurate when it is full...it is more important to know how it reads when it is EMPTY". My 38 Richards Six reads about one-eighth full when it is empty. it has done so since 1973.

The OD section of the R6, R9 and R11 has a higher operating oil level than the front part of the trans containing the main gear sets. When the car is left standing ..say overnight the oil levels in the front and rear sections equalise and the OD section is under level. When the car drives forward oil is thrown up onto a trough at the upper part of the gearbox and makes its way to the rear section of the OD to put the OD section at a higher level. The leak should be easy to trace on a hoist with the gearbox running. if the X frame is dripping it sounds like a rear seal, which were originally leather. Modern seals work ok and do not groove as much as the leathers. Remember to soak a new leather seal before installation

Definitely not worth the trouble. I tried this on my 38 Six for 4 years and it cranked better but just about fried the ammeter and wiring. Fix the original 6V system and it will be much better in the long run. I would put in a later model higher torque starter motor if you do not have one already. This topic has been dealt with previously and is worth visiting. Peter Toet