Thanks, now I'm waiting for my new chrome pieces.

Howard,
It says,"To remove the grille assembly, it is first necessary to remove the fender side mouldings to gain access to the corner retaining bolts."
It is these 'corner retaining bolts' that I am not sure about.
I thought that these bolts should hook to the fender side moulding to secure that as well.

Here are the pictures of the side chrome piece. All the holes have threads to hold a screw. The one near the grill is just a hole. I never had the piece for that part.
Is is a hook with threads on the end or what?
If you have a picture, please share it.

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To start, I have owned this car over 20 years. I have driven it over 70,000 miles, not all trouble free, but fun. I got it as a parts car and repaired everything on it.
It took over 4 years to get it from parts car to driver. It is not a show queen but a daily driver.
When I bought it, the front grill was complete, I thought. The upper grill piece was missing the outside 'loops' to hold the ends to the fender. I have bought new upper grill pieces and noticed I am missing the part that goes from the side chrome piece through the front grill piece to the fender. It looks like it hooks to the side chrome piece and goes through the front grill piece to the fender.
The parts book does not show me how it goes.
Can some one post a picture of how this goes together?

The first picture was taken 15 years ago as the after.
The second pictures is the before picture as I found it in north Phoenix in 1998.

I have 5 other Packards,
one is Debi's 53 Patrician in another blog.
I have a 40 160 Sedan (running)
A 2nd 55 Clipper (with a blown head gasket, but it runs and needs everything)
A 48 Limo (141" wheelbase), doing brakes and need to put engine back together (the machine work is done).
A 48 Sedan its a parts car.

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The rubber has all worn out and my nephew said I should have replaced the king pins 10 years ago.
The King pins weren't coming out easy. I asked questions and someone said to soak it with penetrating oil for a week. I thought he was nuts. So I mixed acetone and transmission fluid together for a homemade penetrating fluid that I found I line. We soaked it and then used an air hammer and after a week of soaking, the pin popped out.
It was not that bad of a job, except reaming the king pin bearings, that took most of the time. I guess my file was not coarse enough.
The king pins have been replaced and now I need to change out the tie rods. I have the outer tie rod, they came with the kit and I need the inner tie rods (which are on order). Then I can get a wheel alignment and some new tires.

Thanks
I have a new front end kit from Kanter, complete with new king pins. We will try again this weekend. Hopefully the penetrating oil will help. These are probably the original king pins and will need more than just persuading to get the pins out that hold them in there.

I know this is my 53 Patrician blog but I am working on 3 other cars at the same time.

Here is a picture of a king pin for my 1940 160 Sedan. I have owned the car for 13 years and the left front tire is wearing out on the inside of the tire. So I decided to get a rebuild kit and try to replace it. My nephew is a diesel mechanic and he is helping me. We have the car up on jack stands and tried to remove the pin holding the king pin in. We tried beating it, then used a torch to heat it up and beat it. I called a friend and he said to spray it with penetrating oil for a week and then beat it, that's how to remove the pin. Another mechanic said, "a small hammer is used to form metal, a large hammer is to move metal". I am using a 4 lb hammer and can't find a 5 lb hammer. The 8 lb hammers have a 4 foot handle, I can't use that under a car.
Any suggestions on how to remove the pin holding the king pin on?

I am working on putting together an engine that was just cleaned and re-bored from sitting too long for a 1948 Super 8 Limo, 141" wb. So that will show up here too.

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On an update on the Cer Tek Gel, the car is running good. I still have some blow by, I have good acceleration, but not smooth at idle. It will idle fine with a miss, but takes off smooth with no back firing. It starts great when cold, but when warmed up I have a hard time restarting it.

I had a leak in the power steering unit under the car. I added stop leak to it and put a drain pan under the car to catch what was leaking. On checking the drain pan under the car I found a scorpian in the pan. The scorpian was dead of course but I'll be looking for a second one from now on. Oh, power steering isn't leaking as much now.

Almost a year has gone by without me adding anything.

Last fall I blew my muffler out! I had the distributor rebuilt and was driving it on the freeway when the car bogged down and started up and I heard a loud BANG! The muffler was blown. So for the next 10 miles I drove with no muffler. At home I noticed a lot of blow by out the down draft tube. I got some Car Tech Gel and added it to the oil following their directions. I have driven a couple hundred miles with no muffler, all on the freeway so as not to bother the neighbors too much. The car has always started up good, but now has better acceleration and the back firing has stopped.
With a new muffler I now hear different noises like a fan belt squealing. So I can fix other things now.
I will be updating each new fix and find.

I had a non-operational 55 Clipper shipped from Oregon to Phoenix, AZ and it cost me $600 and it took about 6 weeks to find a carrier willing to do it. I got it running in about 2 weeks, after that I needed to take it back down for a complete brake job. I agree with the Flackmaster on this one. Ship it.