The generators on all the Packard`s and Model A`s I have restored, the windings had no short-circuits nor broken wires. But the insulation (paper or cloth) was in bad condition. With a cleaner I washed and then I dried the outer windings (field winding) and the rotor. Replaced old paper and cloth with modern bandage adhesive tape. Then I let an repair shop, shop for industrial electr. motors, dip the two parts in modern wire winding insulation liquid and afterwards to be baked in an oven. Commutator to be machined in a lathe. New brushes and bearings. Never fail again!

It`s a 385 engine: Super 8. Thank`s for the support.

Owen, I have made some measurements of my stamped rocker levers. See attached drawing. The rocker levers were still in the housing, and therefore it was not easy to measure the correct arm length. Can you please compare it with your forged type. Please contact me through od-moen@online.no so we can make directly an deal about the forged type you can sell.

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From the model 236 including model 845 the stamping type of camshaft rocker lever (part.no. 158723)was used. At the end of the 8-series they changed to a forging type of camshaft lever (part.no. 194738 and 194739 (left & right)). I have heard that the earlier type was a weak point on the engine, and therefore they turned to an improved forging type. The old type could be changed to the improved type on all these engines. One of mine 1929 engines do also have some repaired camshaft rocker levers. They were repaired through brazing solder, with mixed result. Therefore I have to do something.

Do anyone know somebody who is manufacturing the forging type or who are rebuilding the stamping type?

Hello Jim, I do not know what is different on a Std 8 or Su8. I let a local shop to take out the old core. Then the old core was measured (earlier attached drawing). I ordered the core according to this drawing, with the original hexagon film, from the UK supplier. The local shop then mounted the new core together with the top and bottom brass tanks. I also had to silver soldering the bottom tank due to cracks. Odd Moen, Norway

Hi, my e-mail address is od-moen@online.no.
Regards,
Odd Moen
Norway

I have been told that the Packard quality standards decided to go for the Swedish ball bearing manufacture SKF, and the bearings were then in millimeters. Therefore I had no problems to get bearings from stock in Norway nor in Europe. On my two 6-Series I have a double ballbearing type 5304 in top, and the lower bearing of type FAG 730B.TVP. FAG is German. This is an angular contact bearing with the dimensions 20 x 52 x 15mm. The king pin has to be grinded to 20mm diameter. Best regards Odd Moen, Norway

In 2005 I bought the core for a 640 (Super 8) with hexagon film. Which as I can remember, it was exact as original. I bought this from a UK company (email@vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk) It cost ?400.00 plus ?100.00 shipping. This company manufactured the core according my dimension drawing (attached). The dimensions for the 626 is different. I let the core been replace at a local company here in Norway. Regards Odd Moen, Norway

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In the last years a have used a single grade 40 oil on my 1929 Packard`s, but a friend of mine has also recommended a sinlge grade 30. I have checked the web-pages from Shell, but I didn`t find the type "Formula Shell" eighter as a former or today available oil. I`m hoping you can check once the type of Shell.

Best regards,

Odd Moen
Norway

Hi, I joined the Forum first for few days ago. I made the top bows for my 1929 330 Touring and 640 Roadster myself.
I made a robust wooden frame/jig. I formed a 1/4" flat iron to the inner curve of the wooden bow and welded 15 pcs angle iron to this curve-iron and fastened to the robust wooden frame/jig. Then I split the oak in 1/4" lists. I have to steam, so I warmed these oak lists in boiling water. I made a rectangular tank of sheet metal (4" x 4" x 3`) so small as possible and the water was warmed up with acetylene gas. When all oak lists where bendable I bend them around the flat iron and were hold in place by several clamp tools. After some days the oak was dry. Then I laminated the oak lists with water resistant glue. After grinding the bows got a excellent look. Then a repeated the process by bending the flat iron to form the curve for another bow.

Best regards,
Odd Moen
Norway

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