There's only two answers a prospective Packard owner needs to answer "yes" to: 1. Do you have a lot of money and 2. Can you work on cars?

Be patient in the search for the right car. Took me ten years to find the car I wanted at an acceptable budget point. Yes, these cars ain't cheap. Parts for cars prior to the 120s can be difficult to find. The ones that survived have usually been take care of (hopefully). Don't sell Model A Fords short; you can get any part you need, the club support is very good, and if you want to learn on a 30's auto, that might be the way to go. Check out the Paul Shinn's videos on Youtube.

Great, thank you for the information.

howdy all -- finished up relining the 31's brakes. My question is is what is a suitable torque setting for a rear axle nut for a 31. There is scant information in the manuals or other literature.

That appears to be a 32 carburetor, as the tube from the float bowel cover to the throttle choke is missing.

That appears to be a 32 carburetor, as the tube from the float bowel cover to the throttle choke is missing.

That appears to be a 32 carburetor, as the tube from the float bowel cover to the throttle choke is missing.

Yikes that is one helluva leak! Its almost as if there is no fuel bowl needle in there at all. I'm in agreement; perhaps the float is sunk or the needle is getting bound up somewhere.

I have an 8th series with a DL 51 (standard) and what I do after its been sitting a while is to prime the cylinders with a tablespoon of gasoline, then try to start it. Also, when starting, only hit the accelerator as the engine is turning over (right foot on the starter button, left foot working the gas pedal). If you hit the gas on an updraft carb absent starting, the fuel falls down and drains out and you loose the effectiveness of fuel vapor entering the cylinders, at least this has been my observation.

Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.

Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.