Hello everyone. I need to remove the clock from the instrument panel (48-50). The last obstacle is the knob in the front face for setting the time, does this pull off or unscrew? Or is there another secret?
Gary

It would be nice to know how the factory made them. It certainly looks like the knobs won't come off in one piece. I have a parts car and removed the entire levers, easy enough, and I can install the "least worst" in the good car.
Gary

Thanks guys, I suspected they were designed to go on but never come off, maybe they were flexible enough when new but not after 70 years.
Much appreciated.
Gary

Does anyone know how to remove the white-ish knobs on the end of the hood levers? Can they be removed without damage?
Thanks.
Gary

Hi Dave. As I mentioned before on this forum, I have rewired my S23 from scratch. I did use THE wiring diagram, I think it is the only one. I did not follow it pedantically. AS you say, some wires do the scenic route for no good reason. I wired my brake light switch straight from the starter, then to the lights, with out going to the amp gauge and back out again, Same with the power supply to the horn relay. You are welcome to email me if you have questions.
Gary
gaztank61(at)gmail.com

Drain that oil. 10W30 is fine for these new sewing machines but poison for prehistoric engines with greater bearing clearance. It needs 20W50. You will find improved oil pressure immediately.
Also you might want to use 20W50 suitable for Diesels, it keeps the insides of the engine from gunging up.
Gary

When I first got my project Packard, I was contacted by the daughter of the first owner, who said when it was last on the road (in 1969) it was getting 11 mpg for fuel and about the same for oil. Well I have since rebuilt the engine, so that should fix the oil thirst, but I am not expecting micro-car mileage from a low comp flathead with 3.9 gears and no OD. That's imperial gallons not US by the way.
Gary

Thanks. I know the car makers save a few cents by using steel welch plugs, that's why I thought these tubes would be steel. It only has to last the warranty, not 70 years. I rebuilt my engine 10 years ago, I can't remember what I put in it.
Gary

Hello Gents.
When the factory built these engines new, were these distribution tubes steel? When I took my engine apart seen after acquiring it, there was no tube to be found. Just lots of rusty flakes.
Gary

Mike, I know I will need to make something similar for my car one of these days. A piece of 2 inch box tube under the frame rails, and something going up over the frame and back to the box will work. (U bolts, metal strap, chain...) It is easy on a 48-50 because of the clearance once the inner panels are moved aside. I am not familiar with a 52.
Gary