I got mine from a material supply store, it is cotton cording, sold by the yard. Very inexpensive. Wrapped it in my upholstery material and sewed it on my home sewing machine with the zipper foot attachment.
Bob J.

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Welcome, you are in the right spot for your car.
Type '1950 Eight 2301 Touring Sedan' into the search engine, under the literature list will be your service manual PDF.
Bob J.

I noted too it was a very large and secure solder bulb, likely why they made such a deep recess. This wire is subject to a lot of torque, albeit mild due to the coiling of the wire, but constant and repetitive back and forth as you steer the wheel most of the time while driving. Make sure you do the same installing the new one. A 'cold' solder joint will fail. You want to see good melt and flow so polish the brass to a clean glow before you solder.
Bob J.

Great! Good job.
On mine that centre square area was where the wire was soldered on.
Bob J.

It is covered on the sides with a cotton drill material, no covering on the back, and the felt liner.
The dimensions are close to what you have shown,
-0.550" wide
-0.435 deep overall
-with the core .350" deep.
Like I said, for the cost of shipping I could send you my leftover length. It would make sense to cut it into 2 three foot sections to make shipping easier I think.
Bob J.

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I had to get mine from Max Merritt as the car came with one I think was off a lawn mower! However I did something similar as tsherry with the parking brake cables. I tapped the casing up and down lightly with a hammer to break the rust lock. Once I got them to move some I hooked the end up to a variable speed drill and slowly turned the wire inside the casing, make sure you use lots of lubricant, and turn in the direction of any winding if applicable (my throttle wire is a simple wire but yours may be a fine cable so be aware).
Holding the casing in a vise, (gently as to not crush/distort it, just enough that it holds unmovable).By slowly turning the wire and adding spray lube and moving the wire back and forth in the casing full smooth action was restored, and I too had a bench full of rust and dirt. Very satisfying!
I used fine sand paper on the wire as I got it to protrude out of both ends of the casing too, to further allow smooth action and applied white grease like the speedometer cable.
A plater can restore the nickel finish too if you like. Nice to have as much original equipment as possible on these old girls.

Good morning Big Kev,
Mine is fully assembled but I do remember getting the glass back and having a gut drop because I was worried there was not enough glass protruding from the front edge to properly seat into the channel.
Upon assembly this proved not to be the case. I am sorry I did not take any pictures of the window assembly before installation but I took some shots this morning.
The channel completely hides the glass edge now. The channel whisker groove is .350" deep. I recall less than a 1/4" of glass protruding ahead of the stainless trim piece. I remember it seemed too little at the time.
As you can see in the image below, the stainless on mine also touches the whisker channel.
At least you don't have to get the glass stretched!!
I just remembered I still have a 6' length of the channel I got in the Kanter kit, (I think they ship enough for a 4dr or something). I have attached its picture too for reference. It measures 0.550" across and .435" deep, with the aforementioned .350" deep channel in the 0.435" depth. You are most welcome to this if you need it.
The glass shop I used did not use the tape, but rather used urethane sealant to set the glass, I know, not original but highly effective.
Bob J.

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My brother was the real mechanic, he felt that asbestos shoes lasted longer and imparted less wear and heat to the drums than their metallic replacement. They were also quieter. It goes without saying that the health affects are an issue with asbestos. Back to you for the decision.
Bob J.

Looks like the counterweight is gone on yours, makes it hard to see!
Yes, a carb rebuild is in order. I did not even hesitate on mine, just removed it sent it off right away and am very pleased with its performance, you will be equally happy I am sure.
You have quite the leak there, I suspect rad core, it looks to have wetted down the whole right side. It is a real tough spot to eyeball, removal of the inner fender allows a better view, but do not be surprised to see a wet rad core due to a myriad of pinhole weeps.
There is a reason one needs to constantly want to putter to love old cars!
Bob J.

TxGoat has pretty much covered it. Just because the car is off does not mean there is not any fuel pressure, if nothing else than simple gravity pulling the fuel already in the carb down to ground level. A wonky non-sealing float valve allows gas to bypass it and drain into the lower body of the carb. Could be as simple as varnish build-up from evaporating gas over the winter. Sometimes a shot of carb cleaner does the trick. (All engines produce water vapour when started until hot enough to dry out the internals of the engine.) I would be more worried if there was NOT a dribble of water out the tail pipe!
As to the heat riser valve. You should be able to move it by hand. It has a bi-metal spring on it to act as an over ride and lift the counterweight to have it set to cause exhaust gasses to warm up the carb base and relieve the choke quickly in cold weather. As has been stated numerous times on this site, our old cars do not really need this feature anymore as the weather we usually drive them in is usually not the bitter cold of winter, and we tend to baby them until warmed up anyway, not hurrying to get to work in stop/go traffic. So it is fine to wire the valve so it is always in the 'warm' configuration, i.e., the counterweight is dropped. This is what the bi-metal spring does when new when the engine is warm.

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