Thanks for all the details. Not as easy as I had hoped. I haven't removed the entire cluster before and that part looks to be a monumental task and to get everything back into place. Working on the cluster itself looks relatively easy.

The speedometer glass in my '55 400 has cracked (broken). Any tips on how to replace it and where to get a new one?

Found my set of trim removal tools which are a very hard plastic and was able to use them as wedges to break it free without breaking off a lip.

The O-ring was only partially in the groove and the horn button must have been forced in. Consequently the O-ring was deformed.

After removal of the wheel I was able to lubricate the upper steering shaft bearing, which was my goal. It had high stiction which made driving it annoying as you couldn't use gentle pressure to keep the car in a straight line, but it would break free in opposing directions leading to erratic driving.

I had to use the tool to work the deformed O-ring into the groove along with a light film of silicone grease as the button went in to get it seated properly but mission accomplished.

Thanks for the help. I've had the '48-'50's apart many times (the button is a press and turn) but never before the '55-'56 so wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong.

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I tried silicone spray with the tube/straw but that didn't seem to help. I'll keep working at it.

I've been running a stiff metal putty knife around under it and prying hard to where the lip is likely to break off and it's not budging in the slightest.

Okay, this should be pretty straightforward. I need to remove the horn button but I can tell whoever installed it last didn't do so correctly. I can make out what appears to be a rubber ring but it's curled partly inside the horn ring and partly exposed from it. The button is cocked a little.

The problem is when I try to pry the button out it's on the verge of what feels like could break it, yet it won't budge. Any tips on how to remove it intact? It's in nice shape and I don't want to ruin it.

Yes, I recently installed LED headlights. What a difference they made. Granted the incandescents were old which probably reduced their intensity from new but they really were like candles compared to the new LEDs. The upgrade was quite literally like night and day.

I didn't get them from that source though. They came from a place called Headlight Experts. They are glass and not polarity sensitive so work in the '55. H6024LED They were $180 with free 2-day shipping. Their profile is a little flatter, not so rounded, but do throw a more defined beam.

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The #57 has a BA9S base, which is a 9mm miniature bayonet -- in SAE 0.35", or 0.41" inclusive of the pins. I pulled the lamp from the socket and that's what is printed on it, 57.

I found an LED lamp with this base that is not polarity sensitive, but does not come in red. Both are 1" end-to-end. A buck apiece.
https://www.amazon.com/Serundo-Auto-3030Chips-Interior-Instrument/dp/B07W8G835M

It's going to be even brighter, but less heat.

Since the high beam indicator lamp does not need to be dimmable, I wonder if one of the #57 LED lamps would fit, perhaps in red. They would put out less heat.

The trouble would be polarity on the '55, but not the '56. The ones that have the electronics to not be polarity sensitive are much harder to come by.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0911V4J8Y/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

The high beam indicator is red in my case, not white, so doesn't appear to be dependent on the film but the film would attenuate the brightness. It's not glaringly bright as is, but is illuminated all the time due to the apparent lack of the tube. Seems a resistor would serve the same purpose or better yet a different low wattage lamp were one available.