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Board index » All Posts (1089)




Re: 110 Six oil pickup
#31
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Just can't stay away

Gary Kulp
Make sure the baffle plate on your oil fill tube isn't being touched(contacted)by the connecting rod bolt as it passes by. I had that happen years ago on my 37 115C(it somehow was bent inward). Check to see if it clears as the rod passes it.

Posted on: 2016/3/2 11:15
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Re: 1941 110 cracked hinge & broken door mechanism
#32
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Just can't stay away

Gary Kulp
Try John Ulrich may have them, as he had an upper for my 1937 1089. 510-223-9587 or julrich2847@att.net 8am to 5pm California time Also try the flackmaster

Posted on: 2015/8/27 13:07
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Re: 1937, 1938 Super front hub seal
#33
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Just can't stay away

Gary Kulp
My Victor catalog leaves the V12 for 1937 blank for the front wheel seals. My National seal catalog lists 37-38 V12 front wheel seal as 5931 for 1506,1507,1508,1607,1608 as replacing Packard 237477 (2 9/32 X 3.160 X 9/16) Hope this helps you.

Really a nice car that you have,best of luck Gary Kulp

Posted on: 2015/7/31 17:45
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Re: 1937, 1938 Super front hub seal
#34
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Gary Kulp
The Victor number for the front wheel seal is 49261 for 1938 1603-1605 and I believe for 1937. Sizes given are 2 X 3.003 X 15/32

The 1602,1702-1705 use Victor 49215. With sizes 1 3/4 X 2.754 X 31/64

Posted on: 2015/7/30 12:07
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Re: Ken's 1937 115C Touring Sedan
#35
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Gary Kulp
How many could you use and also have the bolts as well. As I said,if you are going to the Packard club National meet at Reading,PA. I could take them there for you or maybe a friend could pick the nuts and splash shield up for you. Or I could post them for you.

Gary Kulp

Posted on: 2015/7/9 12:26
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Re: 115c Generator
#36
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Gary Kulp
Hi,Bob the original regulators had 4 terminals but the correct replacements had three(they just told you to tape up the extra wire. I will check but I think it was a ground terminal/wire that they eliminated.

Posted on: 2015/5/18 12:00
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Re: disassemble window handles
#37
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Gary Kulp
These should be #10(.190)X32 Hex head ,1/2 long(measured under the hex head)with 7/16 thread length. I have seen many restorations that use 10X32 domed slotted screws instead and don't know any better.

For a source of screws try Tioga Stainless,LLC P.O. Box 565 Burlington,VT 05402 or call 802 -655-9671 They are real honest, good people to deaL with and also come to the fall Hershey.

Posted on: 2015/5/14 11:48
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Re: 1937 115C Steering Issue
#38
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Just can't stay away

Gary Kulp
Unlike most other steering boxes Packard used shims under the steering sector gear,so to move it down for deeper mesh with the worm you will have to keep removing shim till you get all the play out. Make sure you measure this in the center position.count turns lock to lock with the steering arm disconnected and turn it back half the turns on the steering wheel(steerings are always measured in the center position for play)Do this all before you pull the top cover off to remove any shims.
Check your drag link and see if the springs might be broken or not adjusted right. The ball on the center crank arm or at the other end on the pitman(steering box arm) could also be worn oval.

Also check your 4 tie rod ends for looseness.

Posted on: 2015/4/8 16:42
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Re: 1937 115 windshield wipers
#39
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Just can't stay away

Gary Kulp
If you haven't found a way to fix the wiper transmission clamps John Ulrich makes repro ones(not cheap $40.00 each)510-223-9587 or julrich2847@att.net or julrichpackard.com

Posted on: 2015/4/4 21:59
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Re: Whitworth
#40
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Gary Kulp
If it is the bolts which hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together than were talking of three bolts. One is behind the exhaust flange between the block and manifold exhaust pipe flange. Its a good time to replace your heat riser at that time(usually they are worn loose or frozen fast).
1937 6 cyl. exhaust manifolds were prone to getting cracked,but later ones will work,though they don't look exactly the same.

Posted on: 2015/4/2 13:35
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