😆 Thanks.

Ernie, thanks for the info. To make sure we're on the same page, is the arrow in the attached diagram pointing to the spot where you drilled the 3/16" hole? Also, did you clamp the wrench onto the lever? If so, how did you hold the shaft to keep it from turning along with the lever?

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Would the little selector rod guides (3.319) block oil from running down the inner shaft walls, or are they a pretty loose fit?

Thanks one and all.

Does it seem logical that corrosion can move that quickly, ie within a couple of weeks go from shifting just fine to shifting from 1st to 2nd with difficulty (2nd to 3rd was fine) to no shifting to 2nd or 3rd at all? My concern is there might be something more going on there.

I'll polish the shaft above to top lever and keep working on trying to move the lever up with more penetrating oil and some more "gentle taps." But as solid as the two pieces seem to be mated together, I'll also read up on removing the entire assembly from the car. BTW, just how much abuse can the shaft take? I'm assuming I should stay away from vice grips and pipe wrenches.

If I have to remove the shifter shaft assembly, is it possible to pull out only the shifter shaft or does the steering column have to come out, as well?

Apologies for putting my question in the Sr category instead of the Jr. I've since added it to Jr. as well, but didn't want to delete the original Sr entry for fear of losing the responses.

Out of nowhere, shifting my 3-speed got very stiff. R to 1st was free and smooth, but 1st to 2nd was a little stiff at first, then got progressively stiffer until I couldn't even move the gearshift to the right side of the "H" at all. I read some of the forum topics about removing the entire shifter shaft along with the steering column, but wanted to try a simpler approach first. That approach involved disconnecting the connecting linkages to levers 3.328 and 3.329 on one end, then removing the clips holding the levers in place. The bottom lever (3.328) easily slid down the shaft, exposing the selector (3.316), but the upper lever would not budge when I tried to move it up the shaft. I had thought the reason I couldn't shift from 1st to 2nd was because the selector was stuck in between the upper and lower levers, thus locking the upper and lower levers together because of dirt and old grease preventing the tab on the selector from settling into one slot or the other of the levers. But when the lower lever slid down, exposing the selector, it was clear the selector wasn't the problem. The problem was the upper lever being stuck to the shaft housing (3.325). I went to work on it with repeated doses of penetrating oil applied at the top rim of the upper lever - as well as tapping up on the bottom of the upper lever with a wooden dowel rod. So far I haven't been able to get any movement between the upper lever and the shaft housing, whatsoever. If the answer is to remove the entire assembly after all, how should I go about freeing the lever from the shaft housing, once I remove the assembly?

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Out of nowhere, sifting my 3-speed got very stiff. R to 1st was free and smooth, but 1st to 2nd was a little stiff at first, then got progressively stiffer until I couldn't even move the gearshift to the right side of the "H" at all. I read some of the forum topics about removing the entire shifter shaft along with the steering column, but wanted to try a simpler approach first. That approach involved disconnecting the connecting linkages to levers 3.328 and 3.329 on one end, then removing the clips holding the levers in place. The bottom lever (3.328) easily slid down the shaft, exposing the selector (3.316), but the upper lever would not budge. I had thought the reason I couldn't shift from 1st to 2nd was because the selector was stuck in between, ie locking the upper and lower levers together because of dirt and old grease preventing the tab on the selector from settling into one slot or the other of the levers. But when the lower lever slid down, exposing the selector, it was clear the selector wasn't the problem. The problem was the upper lever being stuck to the shaft housing (3.325). I went to work on it with repeated doses of penetrating oil applied at the top rim of the upper lever - as well as tapping up on the bottom of the upper lever with a wooden dowel rod. So far I have been able to get any movement between the upper lever and the shaft housing, whatsoever. If the answer is to remove the entire assembly after all, how should I go about freeing the lever from the shaft housing, once I remove the assembly?

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Cleaned up the points and the horn works again. And the rain stopped. It's a good day. Thanks for the help!

Thanks. Sounds like a good rainy day project. It just so happens it's raining today.

Thanks. I'll try that. Should there normally be a gap? If so, how much of a gap?

Thanks for your response. I popped the covers off - first time ever, but nothing obvious revealed itself as the cause for the malfunction. The points appeared to be closed/in contact on both the working and non-working horn. Is that the normal position? When tested separately, the "non-working" horn actually made a very quiet "cough," as opposed to a bark by the other horn. By any chance does that indicate the horn is still viable and that an adjustment, rather than a parts replacement, might do the trick? I hesitated to make any adjustment so far out of concern for altering the proper tone of the horn, in the event I get it working again. I also was wary of damaging the rather stiff looking material of the piece that looked like it would have to flex in order to adjust the point gap. BTW, the electrical system is still 6 volts, positive ground.