Ok, I will read it, has anybody tried to take the load links apart? How hard is it?

So, on the second picture down on the bottom there is that large washer. That is the washer I am talking about. It looks as if the rod went through the washer and is mushroomed around the the hole to hold it. It is a not pretty or consistent. Which is why I thought it may sit on the washer, but if there is a cup it sits into then I will have to grind the bolt head down. Or on a second note, is that washer even needed, there is no rubber piece on the bottom like the top. Although mine may be gone.

If I don't need the washer then I can just use a 3/4" rod and cut it to different lengths.

I looked at the panther packard one and mine looks nothing like that. I have a cup on top.

The very bottom picture that kevin az posted showes the top to be two pieces, a straight rod that slips into the cup and the torsion bar slips on top of the cup. Is mine supposed to be this way, because mine sure felt like a solid one piece setup.

I am in the process of making a adjustable pin for the front end but have a one question. The pin that came out of the car has a female cup on the top (which the torsion bar sits into) a long shaft and a large washer on the bottom end, then the shaft is mushroomed on the bottom side of the washer.

Currently I am using a 3/4" bolt with a washer and jamnut on top of the washer as the bottom side the bolt then screws into a union with the cup on top of the union (you change out the bolt for longer lengths. However, the diameter of the bolt head is larger than the mushroomed piece coming out.

So my question is, on the lower control arm, does the pin sit on the mushroomed end piece or on the washer? and if it sits on the mushroomed end piece can it be a little bit bigger 1" vs 1.2" or do I need to grind the head of the bolt down?

Thanks
Bill

Is there a vent hole on the ultramatic transmission. If there is, where can I find it and are they commonly clogged?

I had a big trans leak before, changed out the pan gasket, everything stopped and there was no leak after I filled it back up. Then I ran it a once or twice, no leak. Now I back it up in the driveway and there is a leak. It is coming from above the gasket somewhere on the main body of the trans. The fact that it did not leak before and now is, to me says a pressure leak, but I am no mechanic.

Any help?

So, I have a question. People talk about overtravel and I have seen bent motor gears, I thought there was a cutoff bar that prevented this? Was it broke in those cases?

Second question, if let go will the torsion ride go as far down or up as it wants until pressure builds up and then it can go no more or break? or is there acutally a limit of just persay 4" travel up and 4" travel down (made up numbers) for the front and rear?

Thanks

I am just trying to figure this out.

The car tries to level itself but seems to be too high on the rear. It is like it is maxed out and can't go any lower. I thought there was a way to disconnect something, let it unspool itself then re-attach so you have equal ride height change up and down from where your level is.

Bill

Guys, is there a way to re-set the torsion ride motor and arms to where level is. I think someone may have installed it wrong because there is does not have enough travel one way or the other. Like the motor is hitting a max. Is it as simple as taking the motor out, leveling the car and then putting it back in or is it somewhere in the manual to do this?

Thanks
Bill

Packard V8, I just wanted to clarify your abbreviations,

You are saying Ford, chevy or dodge, 1/2 ton wheels from the 1980's will work.

Thanks, I didn't even think about the offset and center hole sizes.

Bill

Can someone tell me what the wheel bolt dimensions are for the 55 Clippers? Do they match GM, Ford or Chrysler bolt patterns?

Thanks
Bill

Ross, I measured it and it is 4" from top inside washer to bottom inside washer. What size steel tube would I need and does it have to be a certain thickness?

Thanks
Bill