Agreed. I did not realize when I was posting that it would place the new posting in the section I was reviewing.
My bad.
Thanks

I bought this car from a local seller who dismantled the car without taking photographs or bagging and tagging parts.
I have no one local who has a similar car, there is little info available in the service manual and I have been unable to find a parts car for guidance.
If anyone has a 39 and has taken pictures showing where the wires in the engine compartment run, how the inner panels attach, where the springs for the clutch and brake attach or how the headlight buckets are installled, please email them to me at rjrussell13@atlantic bb.net
Thanks in advance for any help
RJR

I tend to agree that restoring old Packards should be the goal but since some people are going to restomod cars, I will throw in my two cents .
Putting a new front end on your car does not begin to solve your problems. The car you are working on is over 80 years old and the technology is not only primative but is impacted by time and use.
If you want to take an old car and not make it dangerous to yourself or others, do it right.
Take the body off tje frame and have someone with engineering and building experience create a whole new frame with the four wheel disc brakes, power assisted rack and pinion steering and mounts for whatever drive train you choose. Install all new fuel and brake lines and a new wiring harness for the accessories you plan to install. Outfits like the Roadster shop can probably provide a custom frame for under $20,000.
You still have the drive train, body and paint work , wheels, tires, chrome and upholstery to consider.
If you and your brother can do most of the mechanical , body and paint work yourselves, you may be able to put it together for under $50-60,000.
That is dramatically less than having a shop like you see on Velocity TV do it for you. I think I read that Kendig of Bitchin Rides units normally run.over $250,000. Yours will probably not be as nice.
These are cars that are going to be driven on public roads and unless you have the welding and mechanical skills to do it right, you may well end up with something that is more dangerous than an original vehicle without seatbelts, airbags, rollover control, ABS and all of the other safety innovations that we now take for granted..
These cars are not particularly safe in restored condition but operators take that into account.
If you want a safe and reliable car, you can buy a used BMW 7 or Audi 8 series that sold for nearly $100k a few years ago for little more than you will pay for the custom frame. Take the rest of the money and have some fun rather than trying to recreate the wheel.
If you have the time, money and skills, restomods are great but they require all three .
Stay safe
RJR

One of the most rigid rules of personal property is that the buyer of stolen property can only look to the person who sold it to him to recoup his expenses.
If the item was sold through eBay.the purchaser may be protected by their Buyer Protection Policy but there may be limitations or exclusions.
If the Seller is solvent and still in existence, there may be a valid claim made for refund but as between the owner and anyone who bought the stolen item...the owner prevails.
There are tons of claims outstanding against museums and private collectors who ended up with art confiscated by the Nazi’s and fortunately many of the claims are honored.
One major exception is the British Museum which has refused to return the .Rosetta .stone or the .Elgin Marbles ..or much of its collection. LOL

Longjohn- Looks like your memory is better than mine. The heater on my 39 has two mounting bolts...apx 4” apart. The water tubes are bent but do go straight through the firewall on straight line 6” apart.
Guess I could make it fit but might be better to keep looking. Doubt I will find one as nice.
Attaching pictures .
Hopefully some one has one that looks better and works

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Let me check the size and attachments.
I’m pretty sure that the oultets through the firewall are straight....and pretty sure there were three attachment bolts.
Not quite sure why I want a heater in a car that will never be driven in cold weather ..or have the top raised but still installing a too and paid for new wiper arms amd blades too. LOL
Hopefully get all dimensions and pictures tomorrow.
thanks
RJR

Will take the heater if it will fit a 39 six. Let me know...if you know.lLooks like the one I pulled out but...
RJ Russell

I am going on record as saying that If I ever buy another project where someone has already started dismantling the car...have me committed.

The engine on my car was partially dismantled by the prior owner/ owners and I opted to pull the engine and trans and have the engine rebuilt, replace the clutch, pressure plate , water pump , fuel pump and other misc parts.

The builder is a friend and has done engines for several of my other cars but he does not rush and the engine has been with him for over two years and got picked up today.

Several issues came up that should have been discovered and dealt with a year or more ago...and will now delay installation.
(1j Does anyone have a good picture of the clutch bell crank attachment showing the spring locations and how the unit attaches to the frsame. There is a bolt and large nut like unit with lubricated washers.
( 2) .there is a worn leather boot over the fork. .does anyone sell a replacement?
(3) There is a large hole on the passenger side rear of the block near the bell housing that was open when the engine was pulled. Nothing in the parts supplied to fill or explain it( picture attached)
(4j the fuel pump that came with the car was single diaphram with glass fuel bowl. Not attached to engine and according to Kanter not right for 39 six engine. Replacement pump from Kanter ( dual diaphram...no glass bowl ) will not mount to engine . It is possible that engine was replaced at some point. Photos of castings snow numbers that hopefully can be identified by Owens system to clarify( photos attached)
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
RJ R

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Thanks for the detail. I sent a pm to David Flack but have not received a response.
Neither Kanter nor Max Merritt have one although Merritt says they can rebuild mine. I doubt that this is possible since the drainer side unit on my car looks like a DIY ....rather poorly done at that.
Ulrich says that most are damaged and suggested getting parts from a Ford and modifying.
I would prefer a usable original. I have not dealt with David Moe but hope he sees this post and responds.
RJR

I am looking for the “dovetail” that mounts in the driver side door jamb.
It holds the wedge on the drivers door.