The spare tire well on my '51 is rusted out at the bottom and needs to be repaired.

Are their any reproductions one out there?

Or has any ever spliced in a repop from say a Chevy, or Ford, or something?

I have some old damage to the driver side rear fender on my '51 coupe. When the old bondo patch fell off, you can see that the bottom was hit and gashed open. It was roughly hammered back to shape, the cut welded, and covered with a 1/4 in of plastic. Now its wrinkled and rusty. I'd like to cut this all out and replace all of the damaged metal properly.

My question is: Can I use the door skin off of a 4-door to make a patch?
They look like the same shape, but will it line up to the coupe fender?

Any input gentlemen...

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A little photoshop, and it's like traveling back in time.

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My '51 200 does the exact same thing. I've just been holding the lever with one of my fingers as I drove to keep it from vibrating in second. Figured it was just sloppy for age, now I know how to fix it. Thanks guys.

When I pulled the fuel pump out of my "51 last summer the spacers were made of brass. That's what I put back in after a rebuild.

Merry Christmas from Wisconsin via Mexico. On vacation with the family, but still had to check in with the boys at Packardinfo.com!

My gas tank was rusted inside from condensation after being parked a couple of years. I dropped the tank and took it to my local radiator shop. He is going to dip it, clean it, and re-line it for about $150 (no repainting the outside). A great deal, and will be done right.

A good thing to have done over the winter.

Made a couple of small modifications to the heater core box on my '51 to make re-installation easier.

First I cut a small amount off the back side of the duct going out of the bottom. It makes reconnecting the box bottom to the fresh-air duct much easier (when the fresh-air duct is still attached to the firewall). I cut off just enough for extra clearance, but not so much that there is a gap when reassembled.

Then inside the car, under the dash, the defroster mechanism/box covers the bolts that hold on the heater box. I cut a small notch out of the pre-formed duct work. When this duct was in place, it covered one of the screws that holds the defroster mechanism in. Now I don't have to pry it back to get at that screw.

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Kanter Auto Products now sells a replacement that does not need a retaining ring to hold the thermostat in.

Thanks. I knew it wasn't right, but was not sure the right way.

Now I'll have to buy new blades before I fire it up, in case the wipers actually work, and the old ones scratch-up the glass!