Got the aftermarket switch out. Made by ARK-LESS. This is a rather arduous task getting the factory switches out.

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Thanks Howard. I figured it was in incorrect item.

Sorry it took so long between posts on this. Here is a couple of pictures of the switch that my fan is connected to. I tried 6 times to get a good picture of the front of the switch, and just could not get the camera to focus properly. I don't have an under seat heater. I'm inclined to think that when the original switch broke, this was added. It functions ok, but the fan motor does not run very fast. I have the heater core/ motor out of the car and disassembled for cleaning and paint. I got a functioning switch from BDeb, and tried it today with just the motor. Motor runs nicely with two speeds.

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Thanks Howard. I suspected that it would have to come off as a unit, when I found the two screws in the bottom of the housing, made inaccessible by the fan motor. I will check out the links that you posted. Thanks again.

Could someone please point me in the right direction to find instructions to remove my heater core from my 49, 23rd series. I have not yet been able to find it in the service manual. I have tried to remove the two bolts under the housing that look like they hold the fan motor on, but they are stiff, and I'm afraid of breaking them, and can't get some penetrating oil on them. Can I remove it as unit ( core housing and fan motor)? Do I need to remove the housing in the car and that will reveal that there is a couple of studs through the firewall? thank you in advance.

It's the 288.

When I got my '49, 23rd series, unknown to me the OD was not working. Realized it and resolved the issue. What a difference. The car also had a rear axle issue which required replacement of an axle shaft. I ended up with a complete rear axle assembly, and because it was out of a non-OD car, the gearing was 3.9, as stated above by Owen_Dyneto. So I switched out both axle shafts and the gears. Made the car much nicer on the highway. It does not have any issues with climbing hills. I use it in town even, and at 30 MPH, step on the gas and torque that our flat 8's put out, the car easily works it way up with out any lugging at all.

Thanks Peter. I don't think mine is that high as I have overdrive. Our friend in Walnut Creek suggested going to the 3.9 from the 4.1 with the overdrive, to have slightly longer legs on the highway. Not that I want to drive fast, and take the four lane all the time. I just wanted to lower my engine rpm's overall. I did the similar thing to a '63 6 cylinder Studebaker Lark that I had. Made the car much more enjoyable to drive on the 2 lane and not have to listen to the mill running faster than it really needed to.

Gentlemen: I had forgotten that I started this one. The info keeps coming. Thank you all for your input. I need to delve further in to this as I have changed out the 4:1 rear gears for a 3:9 set from a non overdrive car. I was coming home from a Show & Shine the other night, on the four lane and I was able to keep up with traffic, without any erroneous engine noise. It didn't sound like I was pushing the mill too far in RPM's. My bad for not hooking up the light in the tach. Fall is here and the time to put the car away for the winter and start the winter projects to have it better for next summers driving is coming soon. I hope to get a couple more runs in before the white stuff is here.

Howard...for any of us that are trying to rebuild our antennas, as always, that you post, this is invaluable information. Thank you. I'm sure that as I go through my 49's antenna, this information will be most helpful. If I could just get the stinkin' thing apart....