Before I consign the parts below to scrap, is there anyone out there who can use them?

Includes 4 doors, fuel tank, rear upper and lower body shells, fenders.

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I have an aluminum footboard, restored but find out it is not for a 526. The 526 has cutouts for the air scoop drain duct and choke rod. I would be willing to trade mine for the right one or purchase one. Does anyone have an extra? Photo is the one I have without the cutouts. Car interior photo shows the one I need.

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Why do all of my photos come up upside down?

When I went to align my cowl drain to the firewall I found that I had the wrong year floorboard. The one I have does not have the drain or oiler rod cutout. I need a floorboard for a 1928 526.
The one I got years ago has been restored and painted and is in excellent condition. I would be willing to trade to someone who needs the one I have or purchase one for a 1928 if someone has an extra one.

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My machinist stated he could not bore out the trunions as they were too hard. He did not state the hardness but said a file could not even scratch the surfaces. When asked if the trunion pin could be replaced he noted that unless it was then heat treated it would wear out quickly. I have decided that I will take the best of both assemblies and put together one driveshaft to use. If I then have further issues later, I will go for fabricating a new driveshaft with modern UJoints.

Still curious about the different diameter between the Australian and US shafts.

Had quite a shock when my machinist told me that the components of the U-joints were hardened and he could not drill out and sleeve the trunions. Since I have an Australian parts car of same year and model I decided to see what those components looked like. Sure enough there was less slop in the trunion bearings but the shaft trunions were more worn than my originals. Looking to use the best of both to assemble one unit, I found something strange. The left hand drive shaft is one diameter from end to end but the Australian shaft is larger diameter for most of the middle and tapers to the same diameter as the US one. As such, I cannot remove the trunion bearing plate from the shaft as I can with the US model. Did the Australian car have a different year shaft and U-joint assembly or were there different diameters based on some other reason such as rear end gearing, etc. Anyone know what is going on?

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Does anyone know how to reduce the gap between the radiator cap and the spring steel bale so it fits tightly when raised over the radiator cap? I tried to compress the height of the bale in a vise but it would not compress. Did they have different sizes of bales? The one for the gas cap works great.

I had the starter tested and the battery tested. Both were good. Went back to the battery cable ground post and cleaned the frame where it connected and reattached. Everything worked great. Starter turned the motor over fine. It was just a poor ground. Had enough to spin the starter but not good enough to start the car(throw the bendix gear into the flywheel). Now on to the next issue, missing drive shaft universal joint gasket bushings.

Purchased a 6 volt 50 amp hour Optima battery for my 6 cyl. When the engine was rebuilt, it was started with the same starter but 7 years ago. Not sure what battery he used. Have not started the motor since then but rotate the crankshaft by hand every month. Now the starter spins but the bendix gear will not spin out to engage the flywheel. I cleaned and re-lubricated the spiral gear and shaft but still will not spin out.

Is the issue the 50 AH battery or the starter? Handbook calls out for a 6v 100AH battery. If starter, what can I do to get the bendix to engage.

Yes, it is the box where the battery to starter switch cable exits into the engine compartment.

You have also answered my other query of what size circuit breaker to install in the light system. I am not going to use the vibrating C/B as I so not trust it so will use a self resetting breaker instead. I will get a 30 amp module.