Sorry to bring up the most common problem once again... But I feel I've tried everything. My 49 22nd is still running hot....
I've replaced the head gasket, I've also had the cooling system power/back flushed twice. I have an electric fan, spark plugs are correct, and I've vacuum tested the timing advance. Everything checks okay.... I'm running without a thermostat to see if it helps... Any ideas? It hasn't completely overheated, but it definitely wants to.

Thanks guys 😎 I do believe a second torque down is in order. I sprayed 3 coats of the sealer. I will double check my work and run another compression test. Thanks again

Hey guys! I followed the advice on replacing the head gasket for my 49 288. The car runs much better, no more shaking. I did notice today i have some of the permatex sealer oozing from one small side between the head and engine block. What did i do wrong? And can this be fixed without removing the head again? I might also add, it was 100 degrees out today. So the engine did run a little warmer.

Hey guys, I was having trouble with what was believed to be sticking valves. I finally got a compression gauge on this old 22nd series. All ranged from 60psi to 90, except for my 3rd and 4th Cylinder, which showed "0" compression 😖. I'm somewhat in denial about a blown head gasket, oil and water both look fine. And smoke is non existent. My real question is, wouldn't a blown head gasket show some results or movement on a compression gauge? It stayed absolute 0 during cranks. I am pulling off the valve covers tomorrow to confirm, but in your guys' experience does this sound more like a blown head gasket? I would also like to add, the morning this problem started, I had put a quart of oil, and filled the gas tank. Any other ways to check and confirm? Last thing... The compression seemed lower towards the front of the block and increased from the 5th cylinder on... I hope this info is sufficient. Thanks everyone

Hey friends! 😎 I've been really having trouble with my 49 22nd.... I'm almost convinced the valves are fried, engine is simply exhausted, no pun intended. I assumed or hoped, it was just a little sticky, and used some marvel mystery oil.... Long story short, I would prefer the dependability and assurance of a rebuild..... Unfortunately I'm limited to street parking, and can't really work big jobs myself. I've been quoted 5k ++ for the rebuild from several shops. Is this the standard price? I'm trying to explore my options before I fork over the cash. I have held a sheet of paper to the exhaust, and it's sucking in, not the best test. It also just started backfiring from the carb, and sputters harshly.... Almost like running out of gas. I have already replaced plugs, cap, rotor, charging system, wiring, cooling system etc. It gets hot 20 minutes after start up. It shakes violently at idle, engine wobble side to side.

Awesome! Thanks guys😉

Hey guys, I'm looking to update/replace the Gen & VR. When installing an aftermarket one wire +ground alternator, what else would need to be done. What will still work, and what will not? The one I'm looking at, is a 60 amp 6V... Pros and cons would be greatly appreciated 😁 I'm not so worried about the look, more the efficiency. Beefing up a bit to install an electric fan, and possible a simple stereo.

Hey guys, I had some trouble with my 22nd series 49... One morning, the lifters sounded a little louder than normal, I placed some oil in, and it began it pretty serious misfire at idle. Took it in for plugs and wires, and nothing... Over read that a head not tightened down could be the culprit... Thoughts??

Alright I did find a reasonably priced 6 volt 1 wire pos ground alternator on eBay. What's the best amperage for running a stereo with the 6 to 12 converter. Also been having some issues starting the car, it has to be started with starting fluid everytime unless car was running already. From a cold start it runs extremely sluggish for about a minute, having to give it gas to keep it on. I think it's the carb however it runs smooth when it's finally running.

This is great info, I did get the standard replacement 6 volt battery from napa, and worked great for about a year until the gen went bad. I will check the battery cables tomorrow and make sure they're correct. I also realized after replacing the ignition coil and plugs, the plug wires melted from their boots (parts from napa) It's been causing serious issues trying to start when cold, now so to the point of having to use starting fluid everytime I start it, which also contributes to my battery going stale. Once it's on it seems to run very smooth, I already put the old ignition coil back on, hoping this will help the car start easier like it used to, I'm getting a new 6 volt battery tomorrow. That way everything will be correct again so I can start testing further and hopefully fix the problem.