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Board index » All Posts (bobtibia)




Re: oil fill tube on 53 flathead 8
#31
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gone1951
Wonder how many people went out to the garage and pulled their filler tube out. I did. I had one give up and break right at the block and had to replace the thing. I never gave the tab at the bottom of the tube a thought when I stuck in the replacement. Just figured that the opening in the breather cap should face forward. That was a good thing. I could have just as easily stuck it in any which way. BTW had a time getting the broken off piece of the old tube out of the block without dropping it into the pan. Figured to start with that if I lost it inside the block I would just leave it in there. Figured it was too large to really hurt anything and would just lay on the bottom.

Posted on: 2010/10/23 11:21
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Re: 23rd Series Turquoise Blue
#32
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gone1951
Thanks Eric

Posted on: 2010/10/17 18:47
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Re: 23rd Series Turquoise Blue
#33
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gone1951
Quote:
I recently bought a 1949 23rd Series Packard Deluxe Eight Touring Sedan


I'm Confused. If a 1949 is a 23rd Series and a 1951 is a 24th Series what is a 1950??

Posted on: 2010/10/17 18:39
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Re: Exhaust Manifold question
#34
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gone1951
Quote:
After the machining, take a file or die grinder and remove all of the sharp edges so they won't dig into the new gaskets.


Never thought to do that. Sounds like a good idea. I replaced a cracked intake/exhaust manifold on my 327. Had the assembly resurfaced and then installed it. It wasn't long before I noticed part of one of the gaskets was moving because of the heating and cooling. Thought I didn't have the thing torqued down properly. Now I think the problem was caused by the sharp edged left from the resurfacing digging into the gasket. Never had the same problem with a V8 exhaust or a 6 intake/exhaust manifold. You live and learn.

Posted on: 2010/9/30 23:09
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Re: 2262-9 288 motor distribution tube
#35
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gone1951
Kev, That is interesting. Don't think I ever had it happen that way to me. Always water in the oil or oil in the water. I can certainly understand the bit about not having the money to fix it. I think I've always been in that position.

Posted on: 2010/9/21 18:39
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Re: 2262-9 288 motor distribution tube
#36
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gone1951
Quote:
If the head gasket leaks, it usually goes the other way: upon firing tongues of flame shoot into the coolant and heat the coolant rapidly. This gives overheating and a lot of bubbles in the radiator neck.



Not really thought about it that way before. My experience with blown or leaking head gaskets was to find water in the cylinder and also water in the oil causing the oil to be milky brown in color. Also the bubbles in the radiator as well. I have pulled the plug out of a cylinder that had water leaking into the cylinder and found that the plug was super clean as compared with others where there was no leak. ( same engine ) The cleaning was due to the plug being steam cleaned to death. The plug looked new.

I agree that the compression pressure is much greater than the water pressure in the cooling system however the compression and power stroke only account for 1/2 the time. There is still the intake and exhaust strokes where the pressure is less.


Comments?? Where is Eric?? Always enjoy his comments.


Again only my opinion.

Posted on: 2010/9/21 16:10
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Re: Generic equivalent for Packard gray engine paint?
#37
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gone1951
Quote:
Massey Ferguson engine gray is the PERFECT match. They have two colors, so get the lighter one.


Does anyone know if the Massey Ferguson gray is also correct for a 51??

Reread this thread and it looks like the answer to my question is yes.

Posted on: 2010/9/20 18:35
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Re: 2262-9 288 motor distribution tube
#38
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gone1951
quote]With regard to the overheating problem at the beginning of this thread.
My motor was also rebuilt ('52 327)...the distribution tube was clean..the water pump and radiator new and all specs were adhered to and still it overheated (boiled over)[/quote]
Quote:
I retourqued the head to as tight as I could with a 1/2" ratchet and the problem was solved. An old timer told me they used to do it with an impact! (following the proper sequence of course)


Very interesting fix for an overheating engine.

Are you saying that the head was loose and was leaking water past the gasket into one or more of the cylinders and consuming the coolant to the point where the cooling system didn't have enough water left to keep up with the demand anymore?? Could it be the head and or block was warped and in need of resurfacing. was the head gasket reused after the rebuild?


If that's the case you don't really have an overheating problem you have a badly leaking cooling system. Sure if you run the thing out of water you will get steam.

Another thing, I would not exceed the torque specification for the head nuts. You are asking for trouble if you do.


My Opinion only.

Posted on: 2010/9/20 18:18
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Re: Shifting from "low" to "high"
#39
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gone1951
Quote:
Yet, the Ultramatic Drive Serviceman's Training Booklet describes just that - in Part V, Sequence of Operation - on page 24.




That may be true however given the age of the transmission and the fact that the shift from the low range to the high range wile in motion is, in most cases, violent I would not recommend doing it.






My opinion.

Posted on: 2010/9/18 11:17
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Re: 2262-9 288 motor distribution tube
#40
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gone1951
What BH said in post #13 is very well said. That is why I always ask why a person feels their engine is overheating. In my opinion the best indication of a cooling system that is not keeping up with the demand is when the system boils over. Assuming that the correct radiator cap is installed if the system is not boiling over then all is well. As stated in the above post #13 the 3 degree rise in the boiling point of the coolant for each pound pressure is correct BH stated that better than I did.

My opinion is that unless the gauge is pegged and steam is billowing out from under the hood it's ok. I have a 74 chevy van that I installed a mechanical temperature gauge on because I was concerned with temperature. On a normal to hot day the temperature runs between 220 and 240 degrees. Sometimes as high as 245. When I first saw that years ago I was concerned with the higher number but have since learned that is normal for that van.

Boiling point of water, 212 + 45 pounds ( 15 lbs. X 3 degrees per pound rise 45 degree rise) = 257 degrees. Indicates that the 240 operating temperature indicated is well below the point where the system will boil over.

If the designers felt it was necessary for the engine to run cooler they would have lowered the pressure set by the cap and made the radiator larger.


Again Only my opinions.

(Added later)
Do heed the warning about adding cold water to a hot engine.Quote:
Millions of cars have boiled over at one point or another as an occasional thing without suffering cracked blocks. But severely minimize how far you drive under that condition and don't do it as a matter of routine. But what surely will crack the block, generally at the exhaust valve seats, is adding cold water to an overheated engine which is low on coolant. If water is needed, allow the engine to cool down, and then add it SLOWLY with the engine running


Owen said this well.

Posted on: 2010/9/16 13:22
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