So it does two things at once I can see some situations where that would be a problem.

Thanks. There's some discussion here regarding a ground strap. I've seen some wiring harnesses advertised with a block to ground strap. I have a braided ground strap from a Packard supplier but it's too short.

I'm going to put a 1/0 gauge ground strap from the block to the frame. I doing this as I'm having trouble with cranking speed when the engine is warm. Everything has checked out. Battery is charged at 6.4V. That is fully charge per Optima. I guess I could have a faulty battery. I had this issue a few years back and replacing the standard battery with an optima solved it.

I thinking of the ground strap because I had the same problem with another car, and the ground strap from the block to the frame solved the issue. I don't think this will help because the engine through the mounts is connect to the frame. I also measure no resistance between the block and the battery ground.

Could the problem lie in the starter?

April 2007 issue of Machinist Morkshop Magazine. They arranged a subjective test of all of the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a scientifically rusted environment.
Penetrant: Average Load:

none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liquid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone mix 53.

ATF Acetone mixtures appears to work the best.

is there suppose to be a ground strap from the engine to the frame on a 1932 903? I do have a ground strap from the battery to the frame.

I understood it was not converted from a 3 brush config but I will ask. I also will ask about what regulator was used.

It appears my charging issues are fixed. I had the generator serviced. Nothing really found wrong except some questionable solder joints. The cutout was replaced with a Vreg which also mounts on the generator. First one that was tried did not do the job as it could supply enough voltage at reasonable current. Turns out none of these gen mounted Vreg specify current/voltage specs. Only the cowl mounted Vregs specify these.

Now the ammeter initially shows charging after you start the car. Then it slowly goes down to about zero. This makes sense as it replaces the battery potential that was used in starting the car and then after the battery is charged, battery current should drop off as you supply the running car with current from the generator. This also solves the possible problem of overcharging the battery with a cutout.

I just decided to pull the generator. It hadn't been touched since I owned the car so I wanted to get it serviced. Plus it looked like it needed it.

I'm pretty confident of the ammeter as it was restored about 5 years ago by a reputable instrumentation person.

The generator is model 1005. I was trying to read it before with a mirror. Easier to read now that the generator is out.

I'll let you know what the results are once I get the generator back and installed.

Also sometimes if the battery is totally discharged, the battery charger won't detect a voltage and won't charge. I had that happen recently wit a newer car. I first jumped the battery with cables. Then I put the charger on it and it charged.

I don't think the battery is the problem as putting a charger on it for a few hours and it was good. Also charging the battery with a jumper cable work fine. What appears not to be working is the battery is not charging via the generator.

I am still confused why I show the generator producing 10 AMPS charging on the ammeter yet the battery is not charging and the voltage is only rising a few tenths of a volt while the charging rate goes from 0 to 10 AMPs charging.