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Board index » All Posts (8iron)




Performance figures for 51
#31
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
Well every little thing that I have done on my 1951 model 200 with the 288ci engine and standard 3 speed transmission has made it run better, and more reliable, I hope. So I am getting to were I can drive it around town, and am wondering what is a good cruising speed, how hard will it accelerate, what is a top speed, what is typical fuel consumption ? I am using unleaded regular mixed with instead of lead. I am driving at an altitude of 1500-2500ft. Also what RPM is it running at for say 55-65 mph? Looking forward to your insights.

Posted on: 2015/7/4 17:57
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Re: Greasing the King Pin
#32
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I have been servicing the 1951 Model 200 that I recently got. It had been rebuilt 35 years ago, and hardly ever driven. I found that there were grease fittings that I just could not pump grease into, even after I had rep,aced the nipple, and cleaned the inlet hole. I figured that the grease was really set up, and drove around a bit to help loosen this a little. Then I went to a lube shop with a bunch of great old gear heads like me who had fun using their phnemantic grease gun to do the job. Nice group effort. The best part was I had to show them how to start it with the Carter carburetor, with the built in starter switch.

Posted on: 2015/7/3 18:15
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Re: Motor oil
#33
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
Thanks for the advice. We talked about it as the service station. One of the grease monkeys who owns a 50 Chevy PU agreed with you as that's what he uses. I have had a problem greasing the front end, but they were able to push in new grease with their phnemantic gun. Steers much better. Every little thing adds to a more dependable car.

Posted on: 2015/7/3 18:03
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Motor oil
#34
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
1951 model 200 with 288ci engine. Is it ok to use 10-30 multigrade oil or do I need to stay with 30 weight for summer?

Posted on: 2015/7/2 17:39
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Safety wire fuel pump?
#35
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I removed my AC fuel/vacuum pump to service, and the two bolts that hold it to the engine block are cross drilled at the heads. Look like they are meant to be safety wired? They wasn't any wire on them at this time. I could see where they might want to back off from the cam action against the pump arm. This is from a 51 288ci engine.

Posted on: 2015/6/21 9:39
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Re: How to test a coil and a fuel pump
#36
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
There is an issue that I found with my car. Check the fuel cap to make sure that it allows air into the fuel tank when running. I received my 51 with a fuel cap that turned out to be a radiator cap. I let in enough to air to run but not accelerate properly. But it was a nice fit. I am waiting for my new one from Tucsan Auto. They are supposed to be vented right?

Posted on: 2015/6/21 9:27
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Re: Rear tire removal 1951 model 200
#37
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Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I will measure the shock length next chance that I get. I could try to back off the lower set/adjustment screw on the existing shock to see if that helps. I was adjusting the brakes when I realised that I had a problem with tire removal. Glad it didn't happen on a trip! These tire are in good condition but are very old. I will be replacing them In the future. I have a friend with a 47 Buick who said that he got a radial tire with white walls that really improved the handling. I hope that the radials are not much fatter.

Posted on: 2015/6/21 9:10
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Re: Rear tire removal 1951 model 200
#38
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I will check the shock length The Packard had been restored back in the 80's and there is a new set of Monroe shocks on it. They Might be too short to let the axel down far enough to remove the tire.

Posted on: 2015/6/20 20:58
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Rear tire removal 1951 model 200
#39
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I am having an issue removing the rear tires from a Model 200 with rear spats that I purchased. I have removed the spats, and lug nuts, but when I try to remove the tire from the wheel well it is too tight for the H78-15 tires to pull freely away. Is it possible that the shock absorber doesn't allow the axel to drop far enough from the chassis? There seems to be about 1/2" too fat a tire to pull past the brake drum, and wheel well. I could deflate the tire, but that isn't a good way to handle a field change. Anyway I am puzzled. The tires are cross ply white walls. I have jacked the rear bumper up to let the axel hang, but there is not enough clearance, and I don't want to force it.

Posted on: 2015/6/20 18:11
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Re: Vaccuu gave test location
#40
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Craig Fox
I will keep an eye out for that issue. I have been under the car and fuel tank looks like it was replaced at some point. Rather newer than the rest. My though is the fellow that I bought the car from said that his son had drained the tank and maybe changed the fuel lines when they got it from the restorers widow who was a friend of theirs. I am thinking that maybe there is just enough rust that it is filtering the fuel going into the feeder pipe when I accelerate to starve the carb a little and get the jutter. With motorcycles I have recoated the fuel tanks at home. I know that when I first got the car it ran to the gas station fine but my troubles stared after I filled it up. I wonder if I stirred up the rust on the bottom when I filled it. Anyway can't hurt to drain it some. There might beam little water in there also. Just trying to get her to where we can go for a drive and hopefully not be towed home!

Posted on: 2015/4/28 10:51
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