Hi Again,

My dad bought a bunch of engine related decals and I want to put them on for him.

Attached is a photo of the decals I still need to lick and stick.

I know what they are for however I do not know the exact positioning for them. Can anyone please give me some cyber advice?

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After working ALL day I have not had any luck.

The car is a 1949 packard Series 2300. It came with a Autolite Regulator VRP-4402C and an Autolite Generator GGW-6001E.

I removed the generator and installed a generator and power steering unit from a 1953 Chrysler Imperial and this generator is an Autolite GGW-6001 (so it looks like it is a similar generator part number to what came out. The Chrysler however is supposed to have a VRP-6004A voltage regulator (I don't know if that matters). Both are 6 volt positive ground cars.

When installing I made sure I polarized the generator field and the system worked great. It is my dad's car and he said after a couple of months that the voltage regulator got stuck on charging and the charging was so great that the lights were very brite. He fortunately did not burn up anything.

I bought a new (not rebuilt) new voltage regulator and it worked for a short time and then quit so I bought a second one and this one does not work at all. Now I have three voltage regulator so play with.

Here is what I know.

If I ground out the generator field pole directly to the ground the generator produces 6.19 volts at idle and the voltage increases to greater than 7.5 volts when the engine is at very high idle so the generator is working.

If I measure the armature voltage (connecting the + lead of my digital volt meter to the armature pole and the - lead to ground the armature pole) the measured voltage is 6.19 volts at idle and it goes all the way up to 18 volts at high idle. Can this be right??? I double checked the scale and it was on the correct setting and not reading in 10ths.

I have placed the voltage regulator on the fender cover (it is outside the car and not connected to anything) and I am using jumper leads directly from the generator Arm and Field poles to their corresponding terminals on the voltage regulator, I have a lead going from battery - post (the starter cable) to the Batt terminal on the VR, and a lead going from the + post of the battery going to the voltage regulator case. (so I can confirm the car wires are not the fault)

When running the engine there is no power being generated.

I push and close the circuit breaker contacts closed and there is still no power being generated.

I reconnected up the first voltage regulator and it seemed to function fine on the fender and then I installed it and it would not work. I removed it to do the fender test and now it will not work anymore.

Visual inspections of the voltage regulators look ok. Points are closing square and I cleaned the points.

I removed the capacitor from the armature lead at the generator to make sure it was not causing trouble.

Visual inspection of the resistors under the voltage regulator look fine (not burned up)

Does anyone have any suggestions???

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!

Good suggestions...I knew I could count on you guys!!!

I will try back and post my results.

Hi Cyber Packard Friends!!!

Well my dad's 1949 Packard is back...hopefully not as long this time...

I replaced the brake light switch and am working on a couple other squawks like the rear axle humming after I replaced the pinion seal.


Last summer I replaced the voltage regulator because it seemed like the right thing to do...while I had it all apart doing the engine and transmission swap.

The new Generator was not charging consistently so I removed the new voltage regulator to check the points and discovered that the field points were not aligned correctly (they were only mating at only about 25 percent of the contact surface) and were therefore intermittently connecting. So no problem...I replaced the voltage regulator under warrantee.

The new voltage regulator is not charging at all now so I was hoping I could talk (type) you all into some more cyber tech support/troubleshooting advice.

I checked all of the wire connections and rubbed sandpaper on the terminal ends and made sure they are tight.

Made sure the generator was polarized (even though it was not removed/replaced) by connecting all of the wires and also the battery and then touching a jumper lead briefly from the A to the B terminal and saw a spark. Throughout the afternoon I have done this procedure a number of times...just in case.

I have the Autolite Service Manual from this forum (thanks BigKev) however my guess is that it is something simple so if you have any suggestions can you please throw them my way.

Should I try pressing the field contacts together and see if the generator puts out current?

I looked at the wire diagram and there does not appear to be a fuse in the system.

I hot (cold) wired the generator case to the voltage regulator case and no luck.

THANKS AGAIN!!!

Bill

Modern engines have a PCV valve and that really helps to keep the crankcase clean because it sucks out the water vapor, acids, and soot so the oil stays cleaner longer. Also, if the oil is changed frequently the PCV valve engine will have significantly less sludge on the walls of the engine.

I saw a really neglected 1970 Ford 390 that never had the oil changed (the only added oil when the red light would come on) and when the valve cover was removed the whole valve bay had Jello like sludge everywhere except the spaces under the rocker arms (looked like a Jello mold of the valve cover)...so even a PCV valve could not keep that neglected engine clean.

Thanks Howard for the picture!!!

Going by memory, my dads car does not have that contraption. It does have a metal scale and a pointer thing.

>because of this and 12 mpg cars.

I have a 2007 Yukon XL with a 5.3L Vortec. In town it gets 13.5 MPG and on the highway it gets 17 MPG.

I should weigh both the Yuk and the Pac and see what the weight difference is. Then it would be interesting to see what the aerodynamic drag coefficient difference is.

Assuming both cars are somewhat equal, It is kinda sad to think that in 66 years of automotive engineering advancements that the MPG of newer cars is really not that much better than back in the day...

Yes the Yuk is more powerful, reliable, cleaner, etc. but 5 MPG is the best they can do...even with EFI and cylinder canceling and stoichiometric fuel burns and ...Blah...blah...blah...

So to dig up this Post from the Past...

I am looking at the 1948 Fact Book and it talks about the Series 22nd cars (like my dads).

On page 18 it has a picture of a Model 2252 Custom Eight Touring Sedan and on page 19 it has a Model 2255 Custom Eight Club and both of these cars have the Egg Crate Grille.

On page 183 (dang there are a lot of pages) it lists the specifications of the cars and the overall width of all the cars is 77 15/32" even though the wheelbases are 120 or 127.

Would it stand to say that the front end sheet metal was the same between the cars and therefore the egg crate grille would be interchangeable with the non-egg?

Just considering economies of scale in production it would make economic sense for Packard to have as many of the body panels interchangeable as much as possible so as to save on production costs.

>Yes. Basic initial timing procedure was to set the scale portion in the center or 0 degrees. You would then loosen the nut under the dist and rotate the dist in the clamp to get the initial timing correct. Once that was done and clamp nut tightened then it was a simple task in the future to loosen the visible screw and rotate the few degrees +/- the slot would allow to fine tune things for different gasoline.

THANKS...When I had the distributor out I could clearly see the standard blade screw and the pointer/scale.

I did not see the nut under the distributor you mentioned and Ass-U-Me-d that the screw and scale was the only means of adjusting the dist a slight amount of +/-. So there is a nut under the dist that will allow it to be rotated larger amounts than just the scale?

Are there any 6 volt headlight options out there that increase the brightness of the head lights? Halogen or LED?

Just curious if anyone has researched these options.

THANKS!!!