Chris;
Are the three black 'things' attached to the rear wheel spokes the centrifugal weight stops?
The bike I remember had a solid disk in the back, but that may have been an expedient to try many combinations of mass and limits in an engineering mule.
It looks like the stops might be adjustable to tailor the pedal speed range. Did the bike come with instructions as to tailoring the pedal speed?
dp

Josef;

It sounds like a simple idle speed adjustment might solve the stalling. Double check the timing first, and then begin increasing the idle speed via the adjustment screw. Be advised that the idle speed and idle mixture adjustments do have interaction, meaning once you have the idle speed close to the desired value, then re-verify the mixture adjustments.

See the attached PDF file for the location of the idle adjustments on a WDO.

dp

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The company I worked for produced a product referred to a 'constant speed drive'. This piece of equipment was driven by the compressor section of a jet engine, which would be a variable speed situation. On the output of our drive was a generator (likely an alternator) that was part of the aircraft's 400 cycle power system, so the output had to maintain a constant speed.

Fast forward to the late 60's early 70's. A few of engineering staff somehow got the funds to build a constant speed drive for a bicycle. The drive pedals were to be driven at a constant X rpm, and the output to drive the rear wheel was adjusted to achieve whatever it took to maintain the input speed. Kind of a constant speed unit in reverse.

So if you pedaled with maximum effort the pedals would never go faster than X rpm, but the bike would go exceedingly fast. Lighten-up on the pedaling effort and the bike would slow down . . . again the pedal speed would be the same. I only remember seeing the bike once inside the plant, and don't remember if they used a derailleur or constantly variable drive it was going at a good clip when I saw it. I do remember the counter weights on the rear wheel were quite pronounced, that is, large weights operating at a large radius. If it did use a derailleur then either the pedal speed was not constant, or there was a limited authority variable ratio device to make the pedal speed so within any one sprocket combination.

There is a possibility that the Canadian company paid for the development, bought the rights to the design, or it was an independent development. Chris was you bike made after the early 70's? If it was made well before the early 70's then the designs may not be connected.

dp

So between Ernie and I we keep the highways and byways of Scottsdale clogged with Packards. I took my '54 Cavalier out for some exercise this morning, and took a few photos. I've included those in the attached PDF, along with some text to explain the content. In spite of 90F weather it was a quite enjoyable drive. This 'social separation' has one benefit, the roads don't have as much traffic. I refer to the '54 as a big old locomotive, no perceived acceleration, but a few minutes later you look down and somehow it's running along a 50+ mph.

dp

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As it turns out that passage belongs to the 'full manifold vacuum' circuit. There are three features in the WDO design that uses this vacuum source, namely;
? Vacumeter (the system that moves the metering rods)
? Choke unloader (the system that biases the choke open against the thermostatic spring force)
? Start switch (manifold vacuum disables the start switch)

Other systems that require vacuum access ports that are drilled at right angles to the throttle bores. These systems include:
? Idle mixture
? Distributor advance

Service Counselor Volume 22, Number 2, published February 1, 1948 contains information regarding the incorrect placement of the gaskets between the intake manifold, insulator block, and carburetor base flange. Seems that if the incorrect gasket is placed between the insulator block and the carburetor the gasket material may block the vacuum passage. The SC only describes the symptoms associated with the vacumeter, not the other two circuits. The correct gasket for this interface is the woven perforated steel core design. The plain paper gasket is installed at the manifold / insulator block interface. Seems Packard solved this problem by restrict the shipment of the plain paper gaskets to the service centers, and only shipped the steel core design to the field. The steel core gasket could be used in either location. The paper design was an 'assembly line' only configuration.

dp

Josef

With the hub off the axle I would first start by test fitting the square key into the two slots. It should fit into either slot without slop. During assembly I would place the key into the axle clocked such that the key is at 12 o'clock (pointing up), but the key not slid fully toward the differential. Let it overhang the threaded area of the axle by about ? inch (6 mm). Install the hub/brake drum sliding the slot in the hub in engagement with the key. Continue installing the hub until it 'bottoms' on the tapper. The brake shoes need to be adjusted loose such that they will not impede the installation of the hub. Once you have the hub in intimate contact with the axle, then slide/push/tap the key inward until it is just inboard of the area where the washer will bear on the hub. The hub bore and axle are assembled clean and dry. Before you assemble spend some time inspecting and cleaning both surfaces.

Install the washer (I replace those with grade 8 items if the original washer is gouged) and nut. If you have not previously marked the location of the cotter pin hole then use a marker on the end of the axle to do that. Re-adjust the brakes so the parking brake will provide a good amount of resistance, and tighten the nut to a good amount. The goal here is to begin the process of drawing the axle and hub together before the weight of the car is on the axle. Release the parking brake, install the wheels, and lower the car. The final axle torque may now be applied (brakes off, wheels chocked).

I start with the minimum axle nut torque and try to figure-out how close the cotter pin hole is to alignment. Then without exceeding the maximum torque align the cotter pin. You could also start by drawing the nut to the maximum torque first, and then backing off to a low torque level to begin the process. No harm will be done cycling between a low torque and maximum torque several times. You might also tap the hub several times when at maximum torque . . . some think this helps.

Please bear in mind that this tapered assembly has been known to loosen after 100-200 miles (actually the taper interface has become more intimate which relaxes the torque). Plan on rechecking.

dp

John if you want to play it safe, go to the local hardware store and buy a few 3/8 - 16 one inch long bolts. Before you install the T-Stat goose neck, thread the two bolts into the head and run them down until you encounter significant resistance . . . but take it easy. Then try to slide the 'ears' of the housing under the hex heads. If you can't slide the housing under the heads that's good . . . you will have at least both the gasket and lock washer's thickness as margin. The plot thickens a bit if you can slide the housing ears under the hex heads . . . That's the minimum amount of material that must be removed either from the length of the bolt, or the thickness of 'extra' washers that must be added.

I suspect a lot of tolerance 'stack-up' went into the determination of the 7/8 inch both length. That is every head/housing combination would be leak free, and not jam the bolt into the bottom of the threaded hole. Your head/housing may easily accept bolts that are one inch long.

dp

Randy the short answer is no.

In the Packard straight eight the cam drives the pump, which subsequently drives the distributor. If this was a SBC then the cam drives the distributor, which subsequently drives the pump. The disseminator is which component has the drive gear.

dp

Ernie; that must have been Sunday morning. If I had spotted you I would have surely given you a rousing 'OOO-GAH' . . . and there's no doubt I would recognize you and the Packard. Seems these days Via Linda has become some kind of sports complex what with walkers with and without dogs, joggers, and, those that must be watched very carefully, the bicyclists. I remember stopping at a traffic light on Via Linda on that drive, it could have been 124th and two bicyclists stopped at the light. That amazed me because the peloton set do not normally stop at lights or stop signs. I did however keep my eye on them believing them to be a hazard even stopped. That may be the reason I didn't spot you. The Model A and a bicycle make a good green light 'drag racing' match-up. The Model A normally will get them on top end, but they can easily keep-up during the neck snapping acceleration phase.

After Joe's excellent 360 video, I'm reluctant to post any photos of my travels, but perhaps a grouping of the hood ornaments might have to do. As other members are just beginning the prime driving season those of us in the desert southwest are nearing the end of cool weather and will be hiding in the garage after 9AM. Cool would be anything under 100F . . . maybe a bit higher if there's shade. I'm looking forward of some good quality time lying on cardboard under a Packard this summer, maybe I can figure-out how to knock 10-20F degrees out of the '48's peak coolant temperature . . . other than moving north to the cooler weather.

In the meantime I'm avoiding social contact and only go to the food store once a week. Other than that I stay home and won't even go to the same ACE hardware store. When this is all over I'll have to take the 'twins' out for a breakfast run.

Joe, what camera did you use to shoot the 360 video?

dp

Tvrpman:

Could you add the two part numbers that Auto City Classics uses for these parts? I found the tank, but got a bit lost paging through the sending units.

Thanks dp