I believe that there's a spring in the wiper arm where it attaches to the tower so you can just pull it off by holding with both hands, keeping the end toward from the arm slightly down to take the tension off the spring. It should then pull right off. Careful as some of the bits are sharp so best to wear gloves.

Recently a guy in one of the Napa stores argued that I didn't need the gasket which didn't come with the hoses I was buying and his reasoning was that if they weren't included, they weren't needed! I knew better and bought some. Bottom line, you need them.

You'll have trouble attaching pictures if you don't press Attach for each one after you upload it. Anyway, enjoying the progress!

Motor City insists that they made their own independent of Kanter. That's why one still has them available while the other doesn't.

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Wasn't this issue with the Kanter tanks? I have a PM from James From of Kanter telling me that they had removed the filler notch on the second run but the pipe was mislocated.

Nearly two dozen places contacted to make a tailpipe but no luck. The problem is that the muffler shops do not have the technical ability to read a blueprint (some wouldn't even try or did not respond) so I wrote to several commercial bending shops which do have the ability but the thinnest wall tubing they can bend is .120" (nearly 1/8"). While the specification on the blueprint is .050" (just under 1/16"), .065" (just over 1/16") seems a more common size and would work too but not .120"!

The bottom line is that I need to find someone who has a parts car with a good (and preferably original) tailpipe to sell! Any here? Yes, I know I can take the car to a shop and they can probably make one to fit but even though the car is quite rough I prefer it to be authentic and even so, it is very rural where my shop is and the car is a long time away from being roadworthy.

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Do you mean the Henney-Packard? If so, it's on the Seattle Craig's List but located in Puyallup which is some distance south and beyond all the lakes from Seattle. In fact, it's just a couple miles- literally - from were I kept my 1941 Henney-Packard as a teenager in the '60s, which was at my grandmother's house in Sumner. Working on it gave me something to do when I stayed there and I would drive down in my 1940 110.

Oddly, they were simply crimped over so come loose easily. Typically we warn newcomers to grip be before trying to take out the plug but posted too late that you were working in the tank!

Once it has turned in the tank, there is not much you can do about it short of opening up the tank and soldering from the inside. I tried brazing one once from the outside but it didn't work.

I see. I had wondered if that's what it was but it sure looked like holes! I hope the plug came out easily without the bit turning that it threads into.

Typically any undercoating is put onto the assembled car so the top would indeed be bare. When reinstalling (or installing the new one), be sure it has a good ground to the frame. If it doesn't, the gauge won't work.