Since you need some serious repair and are unable to tackle it yourself, you might contact Metalworks Classics in Eugene, OR which isn't far from you to see about getting the header properly repaired. They would likely want to dip the whole body but maybe can be persuaded to fix only the damage. There is also another restoration shop in southern Washington but I've forgotten their name.

Also, don't be afraid of pressure washing with a cleaning agent as it will dry quickly and so won't make the problems any worse or promote more rust.

In the news today, one of the replacement Harbor Freight jacks failed on first use under a VW Golf.

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Yes, the 1954 Senior needed 90 boots due to the shape and size of the air cleaner although technically it needed it only on two plugs. Of course, the entire set was made that way.

As for listings by the seller, their parts are good but not always authentic as best as I can tell so not a definitive way of knowing what is correct. I'm not sure either but I did see somewhere recently - either on this site, the parts book or perhaps a service counselor - that 1954 was the first year. If I can find the reference again, I'll post.

Also, 1.010 is a Group Number, not a part number. This same group number might have several different part numbers for a given year. The Group Number is used to get you into the proper area of the parts book where you can then find the part number.

I use Pertronix in all my cars and never a problem.

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I understood that 1954 was the first year to use the rubber boots on the spark plug wires.

I have had no luck whatsoever getting a tailpipe made and will need it in a few weeks. The only place I found willing to look at and work from the blueprint is Waldron's but no responses or replies since sending it to them. Any other ideas?

Easamatic is a great system and is the way to go! Why re-engineer something that works well and I may even have all the parts you need to convert it back to stock. I may also have what's needed to go to stock manual brakes but not necessarily from a 1954.

Be sure to locate both of the keepers (I see what looks like one below the spring) and all the other bits and pieces of metal. Otherwise they may cause future damage.

Yes, Chris, that's right. I guess I wasn't too clear in that I meant it wasn't necessary to loosen the bezel first to get the shaft out. After it's out, of course, the bezel can be loosened and the switch removed.

As I recall from the last time I did it 50 years ago (no exaggeration!) you can disengage the shaft fairly easily even without having to loosen the bezel by pulling the switch all the way out first. Then you press down on the bit that goes into the switch as it has more play when not pushed in. It's still not easy but it is do-able!