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Board index » All Posts (ironhead.chris)




Re: Which hubcaps for a 53 convertible coupe?
#41
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Chris R
Bump

Posted on: 2021/6/9 10:11
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Re: Which hubcaps for a 53 convertible coupe?
#42
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Chris R
Quote:

PackardDon wrote:
Do they both appear to be stainless? A 1953 Clipper that I once owned had a set of very rusty wheel covers while the replacements were stainless and could not have rusted. I suspect the rusty set had Korean War Chrome over steel, which was typically 1952, but I did not notice any subtle difference in manufacturing such as you showed so if you can determine if one of yours is steel and the other stainless it may provide a clue.


I'm not totally sure to be honest. One set does, and the other set kind of doesn't. None of them have any signs of rust though, so they may all be Stainless.

-Chris

Posted on: 2021/6/8 14:53
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Re: Which hubcaps for a 53 convertible coupe?
#43
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Chris R
Hey Don,

None of these have part numbers on 'em unfortunately.

-Chris

Posted on: 2021/6/8 12:59
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Which hubcaps for a 53 convertible coupe?
#44
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Chris R
Hello all,

When we purchased our 53 convertible coupe last year, there were 4 hubcaps in the trunk, but they look to be from two different sets.

Cosmetically they look the same, with the exception of the outer edge of the two sets.

Two hubcaps just kind of roll out to a smooth edge if that makes any sense.

The other two roll out to a raised area on the outer edge.

Attached are pictures to show what I'm talkin' about.

Which of these two hubcap types are correct for my year and model?

Thank you so much!

-Chris

Attach file:



jpg  Smooth Edge.jpg (134.62 KB)
110032_60bfa321982ee.jpg 1920X1440 px

jpg  Raised Edge.jpg (232.57 KB)
110032_60bfa332f26c8.jpg 1920X1440 px

Posted on: 2021/6/8 12:05
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#45
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Chris R
Update:

The pictures I posted earlier in this thread were from an expired ebay listing I found on google. I reached out to the seller to ask some questions about the setup and it turns out he still had the everything from that listing.

After talking back and fourth for last 2-3 weeks, I ended up purchasing the setup from him.

I do believe it to be a 55-56 TL manual clutch / brake setup based on all the Packard part plates I've looked at.

I've talked to numerous people on and offline regarding acquiring this setup, and everyone pretty much said that this setup was incredibly rare and very uncommon.

I had three different people tell me that in there 40+ years of playing with Packards, or parting them out, they had never seen this setup in person.

So, if this is what I believe it to be, I got pretty darn lucky.

Right now I'm in the process of putting up a 28x40 shop in my backyard, so I won't be able to really look into everything until all the dust has settled on this project.

The plan in my head is to figure out what will be needed to adapt this setup to work on my 53, see if I'm able to simplify the setup, and recreate it to help others. I'd really like to put this whole Treadle-Vac / single circuit master issue to bed once and for all.

Attached are some better pictures of the setup so you all can see what I'm working with. If anyone has any advice or suggestions I'd love to hear 'em.

-Chris

Attach file:



jpg  20210515_14313sdf5.jpg (350.21 KB)
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jpg  20210517_100530.jpg (405.59 KB)
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jpg  20210517_100542.jpg (315.50 KB)
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jpg  20210517_100636.jpg (403.41 KB)
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Posted on: 2021/5/17 13:07
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#46
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Chris R
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Question I have is where are you going to mount and what type pedal? If there is enough room and you mount in the engine compt down toward the original location and adapt to use the bottom of the original PB pedal that will be 1:1 and converted by the new mechanism to 4:1. If you mount up higher near the air vent and connect to the pedal arm that might not provide enough stroke the way the stock pedal assy is suspended. If you install the 55 manual pedal and mount under the floor that will be around 6:1 and you would not need the extra linkage in the new bracket.


You're right. I keep flip flopping around trying to get to the bottom of this. Really, the best way to approach this is with the master under the floor. Assisted or unassisted, that arrangement will provide the best leverage.

I'll keep moving forward with this setup and see what I can figure out.


Quote:

JeromeSolberg wrote:
You can think of the master cylinder/slave cylinder relationship as a lever, with the lever ratio being the ratio of the areas. The smaller the area, the larger the pressure, but you have to make that up with a long stroke, just like in a long lever arm.
The Bendix Treadle-Vac has a 0.652" (some say 0.655") bore diameter, with a very long stroke, from what I can measure around 3". This is what allowed it to work with the small diameter vacuum booster, and be (marginally) acceptable in the case one lost vacuum.

I tried a Ford Courier dual master cylinder with it's 7" booster. It has a 3/4" bore size. The 7" booster barely fit down there, but all in all the installation looked great. I put some pictures up somewhere on another thread, I need to find it.

However, the pressure ratio is proportional to the square of the bore diameter (area=pi D^2/4) that means it has a pressure ratio of (0.655/0.75)^2 which comes out to about 75% of the original brake pressure.

It was NOT ENOUGH! I drove it and I had to push HARD on the pedal, and my neighbor was of the opinion it was not safe.

I have recently evaluated using the Wildwood TM1 externally mounted dual master cylinder. It has a 0.625" bore, but only a 1.3" stroke, so I don't think it would be acceptable, though I have thought about it.

Wilwood TM1 Master Cylinder, 0.625" bore


Yeah, with the placement of the original setup, and the 1:1 ratio, I think its pretty much impossible to get something to work safely and correctly.

Even for the people that have put a small booster where the original setup was, if vacuum vanishes, they're going to be in a hard place.


Quote:

JWL wrote:
May be a bit off topic, but is anyone familiar with brake master cylinders being boosted by the power steering pump? I recall seeing one of these boosters being installed on one of the car restoration programs. Maybe it was on one of the Restoration Garage episodes? One of these boosters may solve the space problem if the car already has power steering.


There was actually a video on Youtube where a 53 was up on a 2 post lift and the tech was showing the brake setup that they had installed for the customer. It was a GM hydroboost mounted under the floor and was tied into the factory power steering pump. It looked like it was very nicely done. I've tried looking for the video recently but I can't seem to find it for the life of me. If I do, I'll post it here.

EDIT: I found the video.

https://transmissionadapters.com/blogs/blog/glen-kohouts-1953-packard-convertible

Is Glen Kohouts a member here?

-Chris

Posted on: 2021/5/4 10:31
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#47
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Chris R
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
That appears to be the Electroboost system and a few have been installed on 55-6 models at the factory location and 1:1 ratio with the boost power set near maximum. I believe those master cylinders were all 1". If you go that route on a 53 you would need to convert to 12v and I cannot help but wonder with the low ratio about how well the brakes work if the boost unit failed. To the best of my knowledge no one using the 1:1 ratio has tried disconnecting power to simulate a failure or if they have, did not post the result.

I and several others would much like to see what would happen with a 3/4" or smaller cylinder at the 1:1 ratio. I don't remember the exact ram size in the BTV but think it is around 5/8". It can have a longer almost 4" stroke to displace or force fluid out of the cylinder in sufficient volume to fill the cylinders whereas a modern master cylinder has a comparatively short stroke large diameter piston and quickly pushes a fair amount of fluid ahead of the piston. If the brake shoes are adjusted properly not much volume is needed but discs and poor adjustment would need more. That is where the safety margin question of how much stroke for the reduced diameter cylinder is available to move the equivalent amount of fluid. Most modern boosters and cylinders seem to have a max stroke no more than about 1 1/2 - 2 inches


I don't want to go with the 12v Electroboost setup. If you look at the pictures I attached in my last message, you can see that they have a mechanism between their Electroboost master and the floorboard. That mechanism changes the 1:1 ratio to 4:1.

When I asked if I could use just that mechanism with a manual master cylinder, he said I wouldn't need to change the ratio. He said the stock 1:1 ratio would be fine with a manual master cylinder if I change the master bore size to account for the 1:1 ratio.

-Chris

Posted on: 2021/4/30 16:54
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#48
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Just can't stay away

Chris R
So, I've been doing some research on getting rid of this Treadle-Vac setup and ran into an article on lowrider.com of all places. It details a disk brake conversion on what looks to be an old Pontiac with the same setup as our cars.

The master cylinder setup is the same unit that Howard mentioned previously. In the attached images, you can see a pivot type mechanism that looks to change the ratio away from 1:1. So, I got to thinkin, I wonder if we could use just that mechanism with a manual dual circuit master cylinder and make everything really easy.

I gave them a call and ran everything by them, the gentleman on the phone confirmed that the piece I'm referring to maintains a 4:1 ratio. He then went on to tell me that I didn't need that part if I went with a manual master cylinder. He said that ratio was only needed with a power assisted setup, and that the 1:1 would be fine for a manual master.

I asked him how it would be possible with the 1:1 ratio. He went on to say that if you find the right master with the right bore size, it wouldn't be an issue. I did go on to ask him if that part was available for purchase anyway, and he said it is and he "thinks" its around $160.

What do you guys think? Is retaining a 1:1 ratio with a manual master possible if we change to a different bore size?

-Chris

Attach file:



png  ABS Power Brakes.png (1,182.23 KB)
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png  ABS Power Brakes 2.png (1,065.02 KB)
110032_608c70dcbb3ea.png 1024X681 px

png  ABS Power Brakes 3.png (987.04 KB)
110032_608c70e767e63.png 679X1024 px

png  ABS Power Brakes 4.png (1,236.34 KB)
110032_608c70ffb7605.png 679X1024 px

Posted on: 2021/4/30 16:02
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WTB: Manual brake parts from a 55+ torsion level car
#49
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Chris R
Hello all,

I'm looking to convert my 53 convertible to manual brakes. Does anyone have the pedal arm, pivot bolt and related parts (excluding ms) from a manual brake 55+ torsion level car for sale?

Thank you,

-Chris

Posted on: 2021/4/30 14:46
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Re: Manual brake conversion
#50
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Just can't stay away

Chris R
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Can't see the bottom of the brake pedal very well to say for sure which year it is but with the rod extending backward you are probably correct at 55-6 You can compare pedals in the parts manuals. Plates 62-63 in the 51-4 manual and plate 13C in the 55-6.


Hey Howard,

Yeah, it is kind of hard to see in the pictures. I've reattached the one where its easiest to see, but circled the area in red. It's still really dark but hopefully it helps.

It looks as though the plate is underneath the pivot area which I believe would push backwards if the pedal was pushed forwards.

I imagine the 52-54 plate is above the pivot point which would push forward as the pedal was pushed forward.

Thank you for the part numbers. I'll have to continue to do some digging.

-Chris

Attach file:



jpg  s-l1600 (1df).jpg (311.98 KB)
110032_60898e7e88b49.jpg 1200X1600 px

Posted on: 2021/4/28 11:34
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