Still too hot to want to try handling steel pipes in the sunlight. Today was 95⁰. So, I decided to read in the forums and came across “safe highway speeds”. This got me to ponder, the Patrician and safe highway speed. I live close to I-64 and use it all the time. I never really thought it would be a problem especially since I had to pay a gas guzzling tax for the large V8 under the hood. Trying to figure out if the ultramatic has an overdrive.
Once I manage to get her started, deal with the cooling system, braking system, lighting, and instruments my plan was many short drives (like around the neighborhood) before I dare farther and interstate travel. I also want to take the car in to have the transmission serviced and flushed. Haven’t a clue where to get a transmission filter. Highly doubt the local shop has one on the shelf.
So my question is, what is a comfortable cruising speed of a 1956 Packard Patrician?

The good news, is that my exhaust came in. Bad news, no instructions. Really don’t need any, but a picture of what goes where would be nice. It’s just too hot outside to work on it in the driveway. Exhaust parts heat up very quickly in the sunlight. Went to my manuals. They discussed the exhaust but no photos. Looked through the literature archive but failed to locate a photo or diagram. Hoping perhaps someone could steer me in the right direction. Plus any advice is always appreciated.

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I have heard of the pick-up tube in the gas tank but could never locate a photo of how and where the tube picks up the gas. My experience in the past has always been a pick-up screen attached to the sending unit. Since I have a new tank, I decided to cut my old one in half to see this tube. Note the one photo showing the debris that was in the tank. Never found the float for the sending unit. I am so glad that I followed the advice of a member and bought a new tank.

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O’Reilly’s auto parts, provided the gasket for the differential and gear oil (85-140). The reason I stopped was realizing the depth of my ignorance. I reviewed the “Packard Service Manual” but failed to answer my questions. Mostly it covered how to repair the internal components of the differential. It also stated that the fluid should be changed annually.
Before I begin loosening bolts, I would like to know a few things.
1. The plug the arrow is pointing to, seems to be the only plug front and back. Is this the check level / fill plug?
2. It’s been a few years since I checked a differential for fluid capacity. I seem to recall, removing the fill plug, and sticking my finger in to check to see that oil was at the bottom of the hole. Is this correct?
3. What else should I look for when the cover is off?
My thought process is that this is a 66-year-old car and I have no way of knowing if any maintenance was done and when. As always, your patience and guidance is extremely appreciated.

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Hadn't thought of that. As you can see in the photo, someone already cut the original fuel line.

Thanks, I'll do that

Received the gas tank Friday, but haven’t installed it yet. The hose connection from the old tank is definitely aftermarket and does not appear to have the right thread. Next week I will take the tank to my local parts store and find the correct fitting fuel nipple, plus a new gas cap. I did install the rear shocks from KYB. While I was under the car, I noted a little wetness on the bottom of the differential cover. My thought is before I install the tank, to remove the cover, drain the fluid, inspect the gears, and install a new gasket and fluid. 1st thought is where to buy the gasket and what type of fluid. I will read my manual for the later. Also thought it best to wire brush and clean the cover prior to removal. FYI the cardboard box the tank came in, made laying on the gravel a lot easier.

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Just dropped the gas tank and removed the sending unit. Bottom line, this tank was never cleaned and sealed as I was led to believe. The pickup tube is totally blocked, and the tank has seen better days. So, I just ordered a new tank and sending unit from Kanter. Another member suggested this awhile back and I truly believe it is the path to take. Waiting on more parts, meanwhile there is a lot of chrome to polish. The previous owner did have a small piece of copper wire twisted around the sending unit hold down ring, and the other end to a body ground. Is this something I need to re-create? And do I need to paint or treat the exterior of the new tank prior to installation?
Thanks

Just an update:
I've had other projects come up so I haven't done much in the way of work on the car. I have been reading a lot. Managed to come across a box of SUN spec sheets and found two for the 56' Patrician.
I am waiting on the exhaust, have the KYB shocks in, but the weather teases me. When I have off, it rains. The weather is great when I am working, so the shocks are sitting on my pool table. I have removed all the drums and examined everything done by the previous owner. It all looks great. Haven't gotten into the master cylinder. Have removed all the flat tires (they were only flat on the bottom) and wired brushed/painted the rims and new tires. No hub caps, but I think they look great.

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I just ordered the Shocks from Summit Racing after reading the PDF "A Practical Guide To A Perfect Ride". I will be ordering the Torsion Level Suspension Bushing Repair Kit when I can. My concern is the special tool mentioned in the article. The Torsion Level Holding Tool. Anyone have any thoughts on the value of this tool? or alternatives
Thanks for all of the great suggestions

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I have a question about the suspension bushings and the shock absorbers. While gazing up while under the car I noted that many of the bushings seem tired and worn out. Plus, the shocks are a close second. I was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction on a supplier for one or both. Figured I could work on the suspension a little while waiting on the exhaust to arrive. Also, any tricks or points of concern with regard to the suspension. To be honest, the torsion leveling system intimidates me a little