"Any pictures of what that looks like under the hood?"

I had taken some to upload to this website shortly before my previous desktop computer went south on me. Lost 'em but will, probably tomorrow, attempt taking some more and post.

I am slightly "photography challenged" so don't expect too much.

Re: Pertronix

After the engine rebuild of my engine in 2004 I ordered and installed the Pertronix Igniter unit specified for positive ground 12V from (I believe) Summit Racing. If memory serves, the negative ground unit is #1182 and the positive ground one is #1183 but I cannot swear to this now. It was satisfactory and easily installed. I had one fail, not because of the unit but because of an old ignition system fuze that I'd noticed but somehow forgot to replace when rewiring the fuze box (old age malfunction). In an emergency, side of the road, change back to points (contact breaker) and condenser on the '55s you must remember to disconnect the extra coil to ground (earth) wire that is included with the positive ground Pertronix unit.

I used both the OEM and Flamethrower coils during the time that I was running the Pertronix unit and I, too, never re-gapped the spark plugs. The car ran well with both but seemed to be just a litle more responsive and have a little more "oomph" with the Flamethrower coil.

My car is a daily driver and I have, since, installed a Jacobs, multi-spark ignition system in an attempt to improve around-town fuel efficiency whilst running A/C continuously (Florida, you know), again - for the purists - without altering anything that cannot be easily removed. This was done by re-installing a new contact breaker (points) and condenser and using a 12V+ to 12V- relay to feed a negative signal to the Jacobs control box. Although the Pertonix unit will work with the Jacobs system, the point/condenser setup gives it a much more defined and crisp switching (ignition) signal than the Hall-effect Pertronix unit.

Though I have no experience with the Mallory or other ignition systems in this application, my "shade-tree" experience indicates that it should work with any aftermarket ignition system, multi-spark or otherwise. The + to - signal relay would, of course, not be necessary in '56 year model cars.

The increased spark range and efficiency at lower rpm has vastly improved responsiveness and fuel economy (extra 1 to 2 mpg) in the type of driving that I do the most (around Orlando metro area in heavy traffic), improving performance without any alterations that cannot be undone by removing the Jacobs control box, coil and the relay and reconnecting the OEM coil.

Big Kev wrote"

"That's all I can think of off the top of my head."

Here are a few more off the top of my head:

Windscreen - Windshield

Wings - Fenders

Transmission - Gear Transfer Case

Adjustable Wrench - Spanner

Honour/Valour/Neighbour - and all of the other "O-U-Rs"

Connexion - Connection

Kerb - Curb

Programme - Program

Theatre - Theater

Centre - Center

Defence - Defense

Sceptic - Skeptic

Manoeuvre - (almost sixty years on I still don't know how to spell this the "right" way)

AND the sometimes transposition of "S" and "Z"

Certain "educators" in this country have real "bees in their bonnets" (is that their hats or their "hoods?") regarding these minor spelling differences and vocabulary usages. The Vocabulary usage is easily adapted to but the spelling is very difficult to overcome --- especially when one is in a hurry or under pressure.

Randy Berger wrote:

"The new nozzles are much smaller than the filler pipe on the 400 and won't kick off when almost full because the pressure does not build up the same as the smaller necks on modern cars. I think they made the filler necks smaller so you had to buy unleaded. I wouldn't bet on it though. I have to listen closely on the 400 or I will splash gas down the side of the car. The whistle is 9.3055 and goes thru 1954. I wish my 56 had it and even thought about incorporating it. I am probably wrong, but thought it mounted in the rubber vent hose."

Amen to that, Randy. I've had gasoline in my shoe on more than one occasion. I could put up with the whistling.

"No, I didn't know there were 2 types, how do you tell the dinasour juice from the synthetic? Labels different?"

Yes, two different labels, two different prices. Synthetic is recommended for more modern transmissions. Have had positive experiences with both. Synthetic in 2003 Grand Marquis (at about 80,000 miles when torque converter did not want to stay locked) and petroleum based in '55 Pat. I'd tried Dexron/Mercon and Type F both. After reading a post from
Eric when he was driving his V8, tried the Trick Shift. It eliminated the direct drive clutch slippage for me in the Patrician for me.

I second Eric's recommendation of B&M Trick Shift, especially if you're experiencing any direct drive clutch slippage. The dinosaur juice, not the synthetic. There are two types you know.

HH56, your knowledge and expertise in all things automotive never fails to generate admiration. Thanks. Contributors of such wide and varying experience and knowledge are what has made this website such a resounding success.

When we first started to see this stuff in cars back in the early fifties I thought it was about as uncomfortable as some of the more fashionable furniture that my mother used to be addicted to but, some fifty-odd years later and in comparison to what one sees in more modern vehicles, I have to marvel at its durability and resistance to abuse. That's probably why it costs $95 the yard.

Ah, yes, pretty much as I expected when told, "towards the end of summer," but if they're right when I get 'em I can put up with some delay. Mine aren't in that bad shape anyway, except for the driver's door which is pretty much wrecked. Mostly stains that I've tried to get out using most of the conventional methods and wisdom with varying degrees of success. From the sample materials that they sent it appears that they may have done Trim code 60 ('55) before. I'll start hounding them in my usual tactful, diplomatic fashion around the end of August.

Just out of idle curiosity does anyone know the correct terminology for the cloth with the metallic thread designs in it?

I sprung the cash for and ordered new pre-made door panels for the Patrician earlier today from SMS Auto Fabrics. The samples that they sent me appeared to duplicate original materials pretty exactly. Anyone who has used these have any pointers or advice? I have absolutely zero experience with this sort of thing. I have plenty of time. The lady said that I will probably get them toward the end of the summer.

Fortunately I live in a state where we, so far, are not bothered by the bureaucrats in this respect but I have lived in others where where the, "car Nazis," (I LIKE IT) reigned supreme. I am all for clean air but I am also all for common-sense. In case you folks haven't noticed, common-sense and bureaucrat are usually mutually exclusive, one to the other.

H. L. Mencken said it best well over a half-century ago:

"The only good bureaucrat is one with a pistol to his head. Put it in his hand and it's goodbye to The Bill of Rights."