The positive ground is an issue that eliminates a lot of modern electronics. I found a place in California...Woody’s Sound Shop— that I detailed in a posting last September that offers a simple amplifier unit with mini speakers that allows you to play music from your phone or MP3 player.
Very reasonable price and easy installation too.
With my impaired hearing I can not vouch for tonal quality but I installed the unit in my 55 Caribbean and it affords cruising music that I can hear.
If you check out the site, I believe he also offers a converter to flip the positive to negative ground without going through the other changes needed to do an overall system conversion. There were some comments posted about safety of converters which may be valid .
Hope this helps

Do not know if they are the best, but Roadster Wire Wheel makes one with stainless spikes that seems okay.
I had a set on a Street Rod 26 Chrysler that were on the car when I bought it. They held up well for the 10-12:years that I owned the car.
I ended up buying a set for the 55 Caribbean based on that experience and have been happy with the looks and road feel over the 6 years and under 1000 miles I have driven the car since. The chrome seems to be okay but hard to judge how long they will hold up on a car more regularly driven.
I think they are the wheels offered by Coker and Summit racing for the Caribbean.
I had looked at .Vintage Wire wheels....painted ... for the 39 six and had even had Summit send one for fit. The wheel would not clear the center hub and the lug holes were too small diameter to use the lug bolts ( Summit thought they would fit and promptly sent return shippping label and promised refund to my card.
I am still looking for a painted wire wheel that will fit. ( the bolt pattern for the 39 and the Caribbean are both 5x5. The hub hole is 3.3” and back space for the 39 is around 3.5 “)
I am sorry to hear the chrome on the Vintage wheel is not more rust resistant than Ross’s bike.
Their cost was significantly less than the price listed for same sized wheel from Coker for Roadster wheel by almost $200/ wheel.
If anyone has a source for a safe painted wire wheel for the 39.....let me know. There are no bargains but there are also few / any offerings for a wheel that will fit the newer Packards.
Why should it be easy?

Joe Santana’s response is correct. Period glass was generally set in a cloth or cork like material with some type of sealant.
Trying to replace glass in this fashion is difficult and unless authenticity is essential I have often opted to clean the channel and apply black silicone caulking and slide the glass in place.
Once the excess caulk is wiped away the appearance is pretty much indistinguishable.
The glass is cushioned and a good caulk should stay flexible for years.

Bringing up an old topic and hope to get an answer.
Summit offers a painted wire wheel that they believed would fit the 39 six. I had them send one and discovered they were wrong.
The wheel would not fit over the center hub and the holes for the lug bolts was too small diameter.
I am getting mixed numbers for the required diameter of the hole for the hub but lug spacing has been quotes as 5x5 or 5x 4.5”
Still no answer on required back space.
I would like to put painted wire wheels or artillery wheels on the car but original artillery prices are too high for a six...and still have issue of cost of center cap or possible beauty rings.
Can anyone confirm the lug spacing and hub diameter ?
Has anyone found a reproduction artillery or wire wheel for this type of car?
Any info appreciated.

That is part of what I am doing ....in addition to trying to compare photos of the old wires removed from the switch .
I have blown up that diagram on my iPad and have been able to identify terminal 12. In the top of the unit near the knob....and I think number 1 is on the end near the passenger side fuse.
I have not found Number 3
The Rhode Island harness does not identify where the wires to the switch go....although they provide that info for the ammeter , starter switch and ignition.
Would prefer to figure it out before installing the dash rather than trying to do it on my back and. Upside down.
Hope someone else has done this harness.

I will be rewiring my 39 six convertible coupe shortly. I purchased a complete Rhode Island harness from Flack before things went off the rails( Thanks Dave). I have the Wiring diagram from the Service manual and actually bought a large scale color diagram which helps.
Here is my problem and hopefully someone has encountered the same issue and came up with an answer.
The wiring diagram is simple and items under the dash grab power from the head light switch .
My switch appear to be the early switch shown at Figure 40 of the owners manual( Page 22} since it has fuses which run parallel to the switch body.

The Rhode Island harness has paper tags on each wire end directing to what they are to connect.
This should be simple but the instruction tags reference terminals on the switch by numbers
On what would be the passenger side of the switch I can three( 3 ) terminals with numbers on the diagram in Figure 40....from front to back...5, 4, 2
On the driver side I see 5 terminals numbered from the front as 11,10, 9, 7.. and un identified.
I see no other numbers and The harness suggests attaching a wire to terminal10 which is listed as not to be used.
Does anyone see other numbers....and am I reading the diagram correctly.
Hopefully someone has dealt with this

Any help appreciarted
thanks
RJR

Huntley Acuff is the gentleman who originally quoted on the running boards. He had retired and sold the patterns at least a year ago.
I have no idea whether he is still alive but I hope so....he was a true southern gentleman.

I am unaware of anyone other than the restoration company in New York who offers vulcanization service for the running boards in the US. There was a company advertising the service from Canada before the pandemic. I have no idea whether they do good work, are still in business or would be permitted to ship across the border.( Maybe Packard Newbie knows).

I understand the need of the New York company to charge more for services in light of higher wages and operating costs. If I were restoring a car that was going for judging or had more potential resale value, it might make sense to pay the higher price.

When I started my 39 Project there was an older gent who had the patterns for the running board covers. I delayed buying them and learned around a year ago that he had retired and sold his patterns to an outfit in New York.
They advertise in Hemmings so I called and was quoted a price that was multiples higher than the one originally quoted....over $2400.
My car is not being assembled for Pebble Beach and as a six cylinder car it does not make sense to pay $2400 for authentic pattern running board covers.
I had mine sprayed by a local Rhino Liner bed lining outfit...$275.
They look fine and I am sure they will outlast me.
Your call on whether rubber covers make sense.

Thanks Dave. Price was acceptable but I do not need any more parts that don’t work or are left over from cars I sold 30 years ago.

Would a banjo steering wheel from 1938 Junior with 8 cylinder work on my 1939 Six?
Any idea whether they use same horn ring?
Need. A quick answer.
Thanks