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Board index » All Posts (Brians51)




Re: 1951 ultramatic leaks
#41
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Brians51
Les, was that for the upper shaft? I think it was the lower was no problem and has been changed. I will need to look into that. I am unfamiliar with what would need to be done to remove that shaft. With or without a hole in the frame.

Posted on: 2017/12/13 17:29
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Re: 1951 ultramatic leaks
#42
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Brians51
no the car is factory stock. At least as far as I can tell. it is just the cross shaft seals are bad and one is a bear to get at. I think the trans has to come out to change it. No way I can do that

Posted on: 2017/12/13 6:05
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1951 ultramatic leaks
#43
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Brians51
My ultramatic is fine till I turn the car off. Then the fluid rises and begins to leak out of the two "cross shafts" The lower one ( I think) was an easy repair and has been resealed. the other one however it appears the trans needs to be dropped. Is there anyone in the Detroit area that could do that job? The puddle under the car is a pain. Not to mention replacing the fluid as well. Also a pain. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Posted on: 2017/12/9 10:11
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Re: 51Packards....52 Packard 200 Deluxe!
#44
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Brians51
Water could also be entering the car from under the front window seals. Particularly if the same clown was working the day your car went down the line. Someone at the factory had put a chisel hole in my car and it had to have leaked its whole life.(Passenger floor rusted.) Only found it when the windshield was removed for restoration. Brian

Posted on: 2017/7/3 8:58
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Re: Car won't start without priming carb
#45
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Brians51
My 51` has a similar issue. Only it happens when it sits for 2 weeks or longer. The choke plate is down but it cranks forever with me pumping on the pedal like mad. I stopped doing that and just pour some fuel down the carb and bingo good to go.

Posted on: 2017/4/26 18:03
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Re: Compression ratio of 327 head; year of the engine block?
#46
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Brians51
If memory serves only a few years back their was an article in the Cormorant Showing old ads comparing the Packard block with a Chrysler block. The Chrysler block had inserts (low Quality Cast Iron.) Versus the Packard Block ( High Quality cast Iron.) Didn't need Inserts. I only point this out because Packard themselves made this statement. Not urban legend. Is it true? I don't know. This was pre war too. Did this change after the war? Again, I don't know. But why would Packard make the claim if not true? Seems to me to be a lawsuit in waiting if false. I don't doubt anyones experience. And if people in the field don't see a difference.I don't doubt that. But, then What gives with the Ads that make that statement??? Unless the repro ads in the Cormorant were false.

Posted on: 2017/3/18 9:27
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Re: Driver's door window removal
#47
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Brians51
The panel was put back on only a few years ago after the restoration. The clips are wire expanding retainers. I tried ,they just wont budge.Anymore pressure and I will damage the door panel. There is nothing I can do about it. As I said just gotta live with it .Thanks

Posted on: 2017/3/15 19:27
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Re: Driver's door window removal
#48
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Brians51
Yup, I have the manual. Got the screws off the molding. That was it. It says it comes off. well it doesn't. had to give up. Trim panel would have broken. So I just put the screws back in. I just accept the failure.

Posted on: 2017/3/14 20:56
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Re: Driver's door window removal
#49
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Brians51
no, Thanks any way

Posted on: 2017/3/14 20:04
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Re: Driver's door window removal
#50
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Brians51
You are lucky to have been able to repair your mishap. My driver side window is cracked too, but cant even get at it. Had to give up before something broke. So I live with a cracked window

Posted on: 2017/3/14 18:19
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